Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Jailhouse Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burrito Supreme 
Cell Block Six 
Chain Gang 
Common Thug 
Conjugal Visit 
Electric Chair 
Felon 
Fugitive 
Iron Junkie 
Jailbait 
Line Up 
Slammer 
Soap on a Rope 
Straight Jacket 
Strange Ways 
Supreme Being 
Warm-up 11c 
Warm-up 11d 
Whipping Boy 

Common Thug 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Nov 12, 2012
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This cerebral route is the type you'll either love or have. After 20 feet of straightforward downpulling, "Common Thug" traverses hard left into an overhanging, left-facing corner. Powerful underclinging, technical footwork, and general skullduggery will see you through to the anchor. The climbing is quite sustained, though there are multiple opportunities for creative rest stances.

"Common Thug" might seem like a bit of sandbag on an onsight attempt, but is actually a popular warm up for hard-persons who have it wired.


Location 

On the right side of the Jailhouse, about 40 feet left of the 5.11+ warm ups.


Protection 

Fixed chains all the way up. Lower off the black draw next to an open cold shut.



Comments on Common Thug Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -