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Jailhouse Rock
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Common Thug 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
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Page Views: 268
Submitted By: Daniel Trugman on Nov 12, 2012

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Private property with a public access easement and conservation easement allowing climbing held by the Access Fund. Critical to see current requirements and restrictions. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This cerebral route is the type you'll either love or have. After 20 feet of straightforward downpulling, "Common Thug" traverses hard left into an overhanging, left-facing corner. Powerful underclinging, technical footwork, and general skullduggery will see you through to the anchor. The climbing is quite sustained, though there are multiple opportunities for creative rest stances.

"Common Thug" might seem like a bit of sandbag on an onsight attempt, but is actually a popular warm up for hard-persons who have it wired.


Location 

On the right side of the Jailhouse, about 40 feet left of the 5.11+ warm ups.


Protection 

Fixed chains all the way up. Lower off the black draw next to an open cold shut.



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