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BETA PHOTO: The pitch starts in the bowl down below.
This is an excellent pitch that climbs the steep headwall between P-2 of "Wild Ginger Root" and "Two In Agreement". Of special note is that both WGR's first pitch and this one tend to dry before anything else on this part of the wall. Both pitches are in the mid 11 range as well, making for a good sustained 2 pitch outing.
Climb pitch 1 of WGR.
Start by climbing Two In Agreement to the first bolt. From here move up and slightly left to a shelf and the first bolt of "common ground". Make funky moves out left to get into a shallow groove and a reachy clip (use a stiffy draw here if you're short). Continue up using brows on the left and edges on the right to gain a good hold and 3rd bolt. Move up the cool rail and past two more bolts. At the last bolt, it is easiest to move left a little on small but good edges to gain the ledge with the flake and a 2 bolt belay/rap anchor. 100'.
Optional -- added a few years later and is at 11d/12a. Climb up easy slab to the roof. Pull the cool boulder problem into the short steep groove past 2 bolts and continue to the top and a rap anchor at about 100'. Rap the route with one rope.
Climbs the steep wall between P-2 of "Wild Ginger Root" and "Two In Agreement".
Light rack for the start. No gear above the first bolt.
BETA PHOTO: The line is in red. The adjacent lines in green.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 19, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Great pitch with deceptive movement. Good friction helps. Lots of sloping eyebrows and crimps. Watch for the suspect flake before reaching the first bolt.