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BETA PHOTO: topo
CAUTION: The lead bolts above the first ledge have broken before and should not be trusted!
This is a super-classic climb. Retro-bolted in 2004, it still makes a better trad climb. Very little mandatory jamming.
Start up the crack to the right of the short buttress that creates the choke-point between the huge boulder and the wall. Alternatively, you can start up the bolts to the left on Lower Commissary. Climb through the dihedral onto a grassy ledge - beware of loose rock! Continue up into another obtuse, clean dihedral on dark red stone, then out a thin mini-overhang onto another grassy ledge. Again, beware! Optionally belay here on titanium bolts (2015).
From here, move up into the great 3-4" splitter on white-gold stone for 40 feet and into an alcove with a two-bolt anchor - do not use this! Continue up the wide crack in the back. Go straight up the crack to the ridge peak - beware of big loose blocks to the right - onto a ledge with titanium bolts (2015) or scramble up to the perch. Use a single bolt backed up with a nut, and enjoy the view from your phenomenal belay perch. You could even continue from here up Dragon Ridge to the tourist trail...
Descent: Use the titanium bolts below the perch to rappel to the ledge below the wide crack, and then again from there to the ground (60m rope recommended).
There are also two 316-steel anchor bolts at the perch. If you rappel from the ridge down the north side, beware of people below. The rap off the backside is 33m, but a 60m should get you down.
On Lower Dragon Ridge, just outside the First Cave; the south-facing wall. It's just left of lines like Calypso and Noodle Line.
Helmets. There is a lot of loose rock on the ledges!
Gear to 4" (3-4" x2)
Titanium anchor bolts at halfway and near the top
There are also 316 steel bolts at the top for an alternative single rappel option down the opposite side (60m rope required!)
From: Taipei City
Apr 13, 2014
As mentioned, be aware that there are not just loose rocks but loose blocks on the upper section of the climb.
The blocks should hold weight for a move or two(though being careful after typhoons earthquakes is smart) but when placing pieces make sure you are bracing them against solid stone.