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g. V3 - Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
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Absurdland 
Alley Oop 
Badfinger 
Balrog 
Beyond the Fringe 
Blunderbus 
Bombs Away Dream Baby 
Bullfrog 
Cakewalk 
City Streets 
Commando Rave 
Country Roads 
Dat-Mantel 
Dis-Mantel 
Dry Heaves 
Faithful Journey 
Gory Thumb 
J'accuse 
Middle Earth 
Never Never Land 
Never Say Never 
Nevermore 
On Any Monday 
Raunchy 
Red's Ruin 
Sente 
Snake 
Snowpatch 
Talus of Powder 
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct 
Triangle 
Turdland 
V-3 
Wild Horses 
Wisecrack 
Wonderland 

Commando Rave 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy and John Hudson, 1963
Page Views: 938
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 17, 2007
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Description 

Begin fifty feet left of Balrog. Head up a weakness (same start as Country Roads, which continues through the roof via a crack), then traverse right for 30 feet and very little gear to another weakness in the roof. Past the roof here and up to an anchor.


Protection 

Standard rack.



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By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

Went up on this September '77. Made mistake Blue Book cautioned against: "Despite bravado suggested by name, it's wise to think this through before attacking." I bolted over first roof and onto the face...onto the face...no hand holds. "Eyyagghhh!" 15-footer onto ancient pin. Ass dangling just above an angular boulder. "Trusty rusty" indeed. I haven't been back.

By Tim Schafstall
From: Newark, DE
Oct 2, 2008

There really is not much to this climb, but the crux is about 5 moves and really fun. There is a short vertical section to a long, easy, unprotected traverse, then the fun begins.

By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sep 15, 2013

Committing through the crux. 75 or 80 feet at most.