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Just past the 2nd bolt of Coming Attractions. Not...
This is a short, fun TR or slightly runout sport climb on the West side of Southern Dinosaur Egg. It is perhaps 35 feet. If you're there, it's worth a run. It can be TR'ed from the same anchor as for Left Side
& Girls Day Out
. It lies below Sneak Preview
To approach, consider the Mesa Trail to the Bear Canyon trail. Bushwhacking up the Bear Canyon drainage past Bear Creek Spire is slightly tedious and a fair amount of poison ivy lives down there. Go to Stonehenge (with Thought Control
) and angle back East toward Southern Dinosaur Egg.
There has been chalk down and right of the first bolt suggesting a more challenging start. However, the obvious line is to clip the first bolt and face climb to the left to the arête. This variation is likely soft for 5.10d, the rating from Rossiter's Flatiron guide. The crux of this variation lies between the first and second bolts. There is a potential for a groundfall if you fall poorly. The difficulty eases after the second bolt, but there is a runout to the third bolt where you would not want to fall. There is a final bolt, which currently does not have a hanger, at the top of the arête. 1.35 stars.
To descend, you can downclimb 3rd or 4th class rock to the left.
4 bolts (last one is missing a hanger) long slings (at least 48") around the horn + #4 Camalot + wire to slip over the bolt.
By Doug Redosh
From: Anchorage, Alaska
Apr 19, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short fun, but not 10d.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
You can also start up stradling the arete and go "belly to the bolts", but that is also not 10d - more like middle 5.12.
By Chris Archer
Oct 15, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Interesting route. Climbing the left side of the arete is easy to mid 5.10 and OK, climbing the right side of the arete is mid 11 and worthwhile. My rating is for the right side and better variation. Groundfall potential above the first and second bolts. I did not see a fourth bolt, but Rossiter's last guide mentions 4 bolts. Another bolt between 2 and 3 would make this a route worth doing more than once.