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Comin' In Smooth S 
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Five Dollars S 
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St. Patty's Slab S 
Stud with a Rug S 
There Goes the Neighborhood S 
Three Stooges S 
Thunder & Lightning  S 
Tomato, Tomotto S 
Trailer Park Logic S 
Trout Fishing S 
Untapped S 
Up Valley Goes Downtown S 
Urban Fringe S 
VHS or Beta S 

Comin' In Smooth 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1987
Page Views: 193
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 16, 2010

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Surmounting a low bulge. The crux hits with a ven...

Description 

Holy Stopper Crux, Batman! This gem is given 5.11b in the latest Shelf Guide, but there are 5.13s with easier cruxes. The route is anything but smooth, with 40 feet of trivial cruising to an in-your-face boulder problem clearing the obvious bulge. There are two obstacles here, first, there are about ten 1, 2, & 3 finger "pockets" to choose from, they are all far away, and only two of them are any good. Second, even if you haven't wasted all of your energy locating the correct pockets, the move is still quite burly. Fortunately things ease quite a bit above the bulge, but you'll likely be too pumped to notice.

A proud on sight, whatever the grade.

Location 

Right of the "Head Cheese" roof is a slightly overhanging prow of excellent rock with two routes. Immediately right of these routes is a dark black slab with 4 bolted routes. This is the right-most of these 4 routes (and the third route right of "Five Dollars").

Protection 

Many bolts to good 2BA. The first bolt is dangerously high--out of stick clip range. You may want to clip the 1st bolt on "Hot Rod Lincoln".


Comments on Comin' In Smooth Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Feb 16, 2010

Yeah, the first bolt was definitely WTF. The crux is, indeed, a wake-up call after the first part.
By Darryl Roth
Apr 9, 2014

Something may have broken. I did this shortly after MVH put it up and it wasn't a give away, but I could do it.