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The Gym
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armstrong Express, The 
Arnold! Arnold! 
Arrowhead Spire 
Black Mamba Arete 
Blast from the Past 
Bolt the Planet 
Bone 'n' Vein 
Bottom Feeder 
Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) 
Cask Strength 
Cimmaron Lanes 
Comin' In Smooth 
Crack of Dawn, The 
Crystal 
Deeper Shade Of Soul 
Dizzi Lizzi 
Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America 
Ejection Generation 
Ejection Seat, The 
Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone 
Example, The 
Five Dollars 
Ga-stoned Again 
Great Escape, The 
Green Bonus, The 
Gym Arete Direct 
Gym Arete, The 
Head Cheese 
Hot Rod Lincoln 
I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like 
I'll Be Back 
In The Morning, You'll Be Mine 
Jane Fonda Warm-up 
Librium Quiver 
Lockdown 
Morning Stretch 
Muscles From Brussels 
My Generation 
Natty Dread 
Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet 
New Rule 
New Vernacular, The 
Oh... What Are You Looking At 
Orange Marmalade 
Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception 
Paradise Regained 
Penitentiary Pump 
Pinhead 
Prickly Pear 
Profits of Rage 
Pulley Mammoth 
Rally Monkey 
Raw and the Roasted, The 
Real Deal, The 
Rio Station 
Senor Verde 
She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! 
Shorty Bob 
Smoking Pickle, The 
Solar Flex 
Spontaneous Combustion 
St. Patty's Slab 
Stud with a Rug 
There Goes the Neighborhood 
Three Stooges 
Thunder & Lightning  
Tomato, Tomotto 
Trailer Park Logic 
Trout Fishing 
Untapped 
Up Valley Goes Downtown 
Urban Fringe 
VHS or Beta 

Comin' In Smooth 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1987
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 16, 2010
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Surmounting a low bulge. The crux hits with a ven...

Description 

Holy Stopper Crux, Batman! This gem is given 5.11b in the latest Shelf Guide, but there are 5.13s with easier cruxes. The route is anything but smooth, with 40 feet of trivial cruising to an in-your-face boulder problem clearing the obvious bulge. There are two obstacles here, first, there are about ten 1, 2, & 3 finger "pockets" to choose from, they are all far away, and only two of them are any good. Second, even if you haven't wasted all of your energy locating the correct pockets, the move is still quite burly. Fortunately things ease quite a bit above the bulge, but you'll likely be too pumped to notice.

A proud on sight, whatever the grade.


Location 

Right of the "Head Cheese" roof is a slightly overhanging prow of excellent rock with two routes. Immediately right of these routes is a dark black slab with 4 bolted routes. This is the right-most of these 4 routes (and the third route right of "Five Dollars").


Protection 

Many bolts to good 2BA. The first bolt is dangerously high--out of stick clip range. You may want to clip the 1st bolt on "Hot Rod Lincoln".



Comments on Comin' In Smooth Add Comment
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By slim
Administrator
Feb 16, 2010

Yeah, the first bolt was definitely WTF. The crux is, indeed, a wake-up call after the first part.

By Darryl Roth
Apr 9, 2014

Something may have broken. I did this shortly after MVH put it up and it wasn't a give away, but I could do it.