Comici  5.10+

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1475 feet, Grade IV Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Emilio Comici, G.Dimai, A.Dimai 12.-14.August 1933 Season:  Summer Submitted By:  BenL on Jul 9, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Looking at climbers on the Hasse-Brandler route fr...

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Description 

Everything on this route is good! It's just a mega classic steep climb, with no badly loose sections.
On the Ringband, traverse on the right and get to the summit via the Normalweg(4th class).
Long thought to be an impossible wall, Comici proved everyone wrong.
The uber-classic of the thirties - the most famous 6-route.
Comici went back in 1937 and bagged the first solo ascend of the route.
You can pull on gear through all the cruxes. Many pitons on the lower steep part of the climb.
A great climb!
The crux pitch, if freeclimbed, is the first hard one and the last pitch of the difficulties.

Location 

Finding the route is fairly easy.
It more or less follows a black strike and then a big dihedral on the right side of the North Face.

Protection 

Many Pitons, most of them are pretty bad. Bring a full set of cams, add some medium and small stuff and a set of nuts. If you are experienced with pegs, bring some in order to replace the rusty old ones.

Photos of Comici Slideshow

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A couple of local guides out for some re-certifica...	Merrill Bitter free climbed it all at 5.11, I pull...	Half way up the steep part of the Comici. A cold ...
Kim Miller - dressed for ice climbing.	The Spainards on Cima Granda