Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cima Ovest, N.E. Arete T 
Cima Ovest-North Face - Cassin T 
Cima Piccola South Arete Yellow edge T 
Cime Grande, West Face -- "Dulfer" T 
Comici T 
Unsorted Routes:

Comici 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1475', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Emilio Comici, G.Dimai, A.Dimai 12.-14.August 1933
Season: Summer
Page Views: 4,439
Submitted By: BenL on Jul 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Looking at climbers on the Hasse-Brandler route fr...

Description 

Everything on this route is good! It's just a mega classic steep climb, with no badly loose sections.
On the Ringband, traverse on the right and get to the summit via the Normalweg(4th class).
Long thought to be an impossible wall, Comici proved everyone wrong.
The uber-classic of the thirties - the most famous 6-route.
Comici went back in 1937 and bagged the first solo ascend of the route.
You can pull on gear through all the cruxes. Many pitons on the lower steep part of the climb.
A great climb!
The crux pitch, if freeclimbed, is the first hard one and the last pitch of the difficulties.


Location 

Finding the route is fairly easy.
It more or less follows a black strike and then a big dihedral on the right side of the North Face.


Protection 

Many Pitons, most of them are pretty bad. Bring a full set of cams, add some medium and small stuff and a set of nuts. If you are experienced with pegs, bring some in order to replace the rusty old ones.



Photos of Comici Slideshow Add Photo
Half way up the steep part of the Comici.  A cold Merrill Bitter.
Half way up the steep part of the Comici. A cold ...
Kim Miller - dressed for ice climbing.
Kim Miller - dressed for ice climbing.
A couple of local guides out for some re-certification hot on our heels.  They passed us, and then got lost (guides??).  We caught them and had to wait on the last pitch.   <br /> <br />Once on top, they disappeared fast.    Apparently, they had done the descent before.
A couple of local guides out for some re-certifica...
Merrill Bitter free climbed it all at 5.11, I pulled on every piece  at 5.10 A0.
Merrill Bitter free climbed it all at 5.11, I pull...
The Spainards on Cima Granda
The Spainards on Cima Granda
Comments on Comici Add Comment
Show which comments
By rpc
Feb 15, 2012

the best climb we've done in the Dolomites & one of the best lines we've done anywhere. what a proud line up a gorgeous face!