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Cime Grande
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Cime Grande, West Face -- "Dulfer" T 
North Face - Comici T 
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North Face - Comici 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 1475', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Emilio Comici, G.Dimai, A.Dimai 12.-14.August 1933
Season: Summer
Page Views: 4,688
Submitted By: BenL on Jul 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Looking at climbers on the Hasse-Brandler route fr...

Description 

Everything on this route is good! It's just a mega classic steep climb, with no badly loose sections.
On the Ringband, traverse on the right and get to the summit via the Normalweg(4th class).
Long thought to be an impossible wall, Comici proved everyone wrong.
The uber-classic of the thirties - the most famous 6-route.
Comici went back in 1937 and bagged the first solo ascend of the route.
You can pull on gear through all the cruxes. Many pitons on the lower steep part of the climb.
A great climb!
The crux pitch, if freeclimbed, is the first hard one and the last pitch of the difficulties.

Location 

Finding the route is fairly easy.
It more or less follows a black strike and then a big dihedral on the right side of the North Face.

Protection 

Many Pitons, most of them are pretty bad. Bring a full set of cams, add some medium and small stuff and a set of nuts. If you are experienced with pegs, bring some in order to replace the rusty old ones.


Photos of North Face - Comici Slideshow Add Photo
Half way up the steep part of the Comici.  A cold ...
Half way up the steep part of the Comici. A cold ...
Kim Miller - dressed for ice climbing.
Kim Miller - dressed for ice climbing.
The Spainards on Cima Granda
The Spainards on Cima Granda
A couple of local guides out for some re-certifica...
A couple of local guides out for some re-certifica...
Merrill Bitter free climbed it all at 5.11, I pull...
Merrill Bitter free climbed it all at 5.11, I pull...
Cima Grande is in center.
Cima Grande is in center.

Comments on North Face - Comici Add Comment
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By rpc
Feb 15, 2012

the best climb we've done in the Dolomites & one of the best lines we've done anywhere. what a proud line up a gorgeous face!
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 21, 2014

I took my first-ever leader fall on the Comici in early August 1964. Wrecked my belayer and retreated.