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BETA PHOTO: Russ starting Comfortably Numb. Super Roof is the...
Right of Super Roof is this wide roof crack. Short but clean.
If you set a toprope, make sure the rope stays out of the crack. Otherwise you risk a bad swing into the face below.
gear to 5-6" (or a toprope)
Russ getting established in the wide.
Russ fairly Numb in the squeeze section above the ...
Getting into the wide
|Comments on Comfortably Numb
|By Russ Walling|
Nov 24, 2007
Nice rig. The face start can be tricky if you start anywhere left of the roof crack. Use the obvious holds and come in from the right to get under the roof. Getting established in the crack is the crux. Probably the hardest 4 feet of climbing you will do all month.
To set a top rope, you will need a long extendo runner, like 30 ft or so to take advantage of the good pro. Set two 1" cams in a low horizontal directly behind the route crack and then sling the horn formed by the actual crack and the summit block. You can also place a #5 and #6 Wild Country cam in the wide crack that is off to skiers left to keep your toprope from going into the route crack and backing up your quasi marginal anchor described above.
Here is a short Flash Slide Show of the route:
|By Richard Shore|
Dec 10, 2012
Wanted to give this one a go last weekend, but was a bit dismayed at the sight of splattered blood EVERYWHERE at the base of the route. Looks like a man (or woman) was recently eaten alive by this OW..