|First Creek Slabs
|Type: ||Trad, 9 pitches, 1200', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Jed Botsford, Matt Clarke, Larry DeAngelo,Tim Fearn|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,686|
|Submitted By: ||sqwirll on Oct 19, 2007|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the route.
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This is a pretty good quality route to the left of Hot Flash. For the most part, the climbing is pretty tame. The harder sections protect well.
The FA party climbed this route on 70m ropes and some of the pitches were stretchers, so belay locations may vary.
Pitch 1 - Climb the right facing corner 50' to the left of Hot Flash. When the difficulty eases, traverse left up to a left facing corner and a ledge.
Pitch 2 - Traverse left to the gully and up a left facing corner to the base of a small roof. Protection is somewhat tricky on this pitch.
Pitch 3 - Pull the small roof, then continue up to the left facing corner and pull through the big roof on face holds to the right.
Pitch 4 - Traverse up and right on easy ground to the base of a long left facing corner.
Pitch 5 - Climb the corner to a small stance at the top of the corner. This pitch is a full 70m. Protection is good and a intermediate belay could be set up easily.
Pitch 6 - Continue up the featured face to a bush. This pitch is also a full 70m with alternate belays available.
Pitch 7 - Continue up the face which eases in difficulty the higher you get.
Pitch 8 - Traverse right on a terrace on 4th class terrain.
Pitch 9 - Climb the last pitch of Hot Flash.
Descent: Follow the Hot Flash descent.
Start 50' to the left of Hot Flash in the Echove. A right facing corner/groove marks the start of the route.
Pro to 4".
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the corner of pitch 5. The rock angl...
Jed face climbing through the big roof.
Timmy pulling through the small roof on pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: Pitches 3-9 on the route.
The fun face/crack on Pitch 6.
BETA PHOTO: The corner and big roof on pitch 3.