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|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 490 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.8 [details]|
|FA: ||Ben Folsom, Paul Ross, Layne Potter|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Feb 24, 2005|
Ben leading pitch 3
"Come-Up-Pance".II 5.8 English dictionary: "a punishment due and well deserved". In Sept 2004 Ross fell off this route when a ledge collapsed resulting in a broken ankle.From the trailhead at the entrance to Three Finger Canyon cross and scramble up about 500' to a level area left of a long flat ramp below the left leaning groove of pitch 2.
P1 Cross a gap and head straight up the slab towards a big ledge below the groove ,a right slanting crack is just to the right of this groove.190' 5.6R
P2)Climb the groove passed two bolts. From the second bolt move left and pull out of the groove then more easily to double anchors.150' 5.8.
P3 To the left is a wide open groove system guarded by a fairly steep slab. Climb to a bolt at 50', the angle eases after 70'then nice pleasant climbing to the summit. 150' 5.7R.
Descend down "Cry Not". Scramble up the ridge south for about 100' to find double rap anchors of Cry Not.
Camalots: #0.3 #0.5 #0.75 #2 #3_ Two 60 meter ropes
Paul on pitch 3
Paul leading Pitch 1
On summit of Come-up-pance.
BETA PHOTO: A)Cry Not 5.7R
B)Clouded Dreams 5.8R
The second pitch.