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 ADVANCED
P Crags
Select Route:
A Mile and a Bit of Fun T 
Clouded Dreams T 
Come-Up-Pance. T 
Cry Not T 
Dreamy Clouds T 
Hot Tin Slab T 
Katzs Way T 

Come-Up-Pance. 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 490', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ben Folsom, Paul Ross, Layne Potter
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 669
Submitted By: USBRIT on Feb 24, 2005

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Ben leading pitch 3

Description 

"Come-Up-Pance".II 5.8 English dictionary: "a punishment due and well deserved". In Sept 2004 on the first attempt at this climb Ross took a forty footer when a ledge collasped resulting in a broken ankle.From the trailhead at the entrance to Three Finger Canyon cross and scramble up about 500' to a level area left of a long flat ramp below the left leaning groove of pitch 2.

P1 Cross a gap and head straight up the slab towards a big ledge below the groove ,a right slanting crack is just to the right of this groove.190' 5.6R
P2)Climb the groove passed two bolts. From the second bolt move left and pull out of the groove then more easily to double anchors.150' 5.8.
P3 To the left is a wide open groove system guarded by a fairly steep slab. Climb to a bolt at 50', the angle eases after 70'then nice pleasant climbing to the summit. 150' 5.7R.

Descend down "Cry Not". Scramble up the ridge south for about 100' to find double rap anchors of Cry Not.

Protection 

Camalots: #0.3 #0.5 #0.75 #2 #3_ Two 60 meter ropes


Photos of Come-Up-Pance. Slideshow Add Photo
A)Cry Not 5.7R <br />B)Clouded Dreams 5.8R <br />C)Come-Up-Pance 5.8R
BETA PHOTO: A)Cry Not 5.7R
B)Clouded Dreams 5.8R
C)Come-Up-Pan...
Paul on pitch 3
Paul on pitch 3
On summit of Come-up-pance.
On summit of Come-up-pance.
Paul leading Pitch 1 <br />
Paul leading Pitch 1
The second pitch.
The second pitch.

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