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To find this route first spot a rather obvious roof, perhaps 6 meters off of the deck, then walk/squirm into a bit of a boulder-grotto at the base. Climb up the face to reach a bolt (5.10a), into the left side of the huge roof (bolt, cam, 10b), then pulls right (crux?) into a traverse of a semi-horizontal crack to it's right end (easier here, with gear if desired), then goes back up the wall again on face moves past a bolt (5.8). At the top the climbing is runout just a shave at the 5.7/8 level. Descend by rapping from bolts atop the route Candelabra and then walk back to the base.
This route is on the outside of Steve Canyon, facing west towards the road, and actually is located on the far right side of the Watanobe Wall. This climb and others by it are best reached by going to the left from the south entrance to Steve Canyon (past Grand Theft Avacado) or approached more easily still from the road/parking areas to the west.
A standard light rack. You will only place a few pieces other than clipping bolts, but you will want what you get. Carry a few 2' slings to reduce drag.
|By Richard Shore|
Dec 12, 2010
1/4" bolts. 1st one is almost pointless, seems way off route. Interesting (read: awkward) crux move over the roof. It was a bit of a belly flop for me. Two bolts on the upper face.
The picture of the route isnt right either. There is a bolt at the very bottom, and the route goes up the crack over the roof (the pic shows face climbing to the loet of the crack). And there are two bolts on the upper slab section, not one as shown.