|Original:||YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]|
|Submitted By:||m.wendling on Jan 16, 2008|
|Comments on Come Home Curly||Add Comment|
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From: Morrison, CO
Apr 6, 2011
This is one of the more unique routes around, with wild, gymnastic movement and improbable sequences. There are 5 monos, with the crux involving a dyno off a keeper mono to a small but incut mono with poor feet. The mid-section of this route has excellent stone, but the start can be seapy and tends to be a bit sub-par. The upper roof is trivial with good beta, so this is basically a 15-20 move sprint to reach the slab.
The name comes from the opening lines of the John Prine song "Speed of the Sound of Loneliness":
You come home late and you come home early
You come on big when you're feeling small
You come home straight and you come home curly
Sometimes you don't come home at all
So-named because of the pretzl-move getting past the fourth bolt that sent Todd spinning on the end of the rope when he fell there. There's a great shot of Todd doing this move on the dedication page of Bechtel's "Lander Sport Climbs".