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Comales Canyon

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Fire Wall and Upper Tier 
Water Wall and Lower Areas 

Comales Canyon Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,500'
Location: 36.1596, -105.5853 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,177
Administrators: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Howard on Nov 5, 2008
Forecast:
Today

66° | 38°
Sunday

68° | 40°
Monday

65° | 31°
Tuesday

56° | 29°
Wednesday

55° | 29°
Thursday

60° | 31°
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Description 

Beautiful high mountain setting in pristine canyon with bullet-hard rock. Moderate trad on the banks of a mountain stream (Water Wall), and a few fun bolted sport routes on the steep black and orange cliff band above (Fire Wall).

Getting There 

Hwy 518 about 18 miles east of Taos. Look for FS Rd 22 just past Comales Campground at a turnout on the right. If you get to Sipapu, you missed it...

Great swimming a mile East on NM 518 at a pull out on the north of the road below a series of small waterfalls.

Food, gas, lodging and a nice disc golf course in Sipapu Ski Area a few miles further east on NM518. One of the most family friendly climbing areas in Taos county.

Guide book for the area is Jay Foley's "Taos Rock"

Local guide service www.climbtaos.com

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.1 miles from here

41 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',5],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',14],['5.11',10],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Comales Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Comales Canyon:
Stella's Groove   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Take the Plunge   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Water Wall and Lower Areas
Fun for the Whole Family   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 40'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
In Descent   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Pure Vida   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 60'   Water Wall and Lower Areas
E-Z Rider   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Nicole's Corner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Kindling   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
It Takes a Village to Raise a Route   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 45'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Prescribed burn   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Shadow Caster   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
The Egg   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Fire Walker   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Burnt   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Summer Solstice   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 50'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Fiyo   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 60'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Reignite   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 50'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Father's Day   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 50'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Toast   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 50'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Family Man   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Comales Canyon

Featured Route For Comales Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: ez rider goes  up left side of photo, on orange ro...

E-Z Rider 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  NM : Taos Area : ... : Fire Wall and Upper Tier
Bouldery start to high first bolt. Try to stay on bolt line, harder to right easier to the left. A little reachy at the crux. Easy finish on left side of arete. Easy top rope route to left....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Comales Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Comales entrance
Comales entrance
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Magazine No 293 March 2011
BETA PHOTO: Climbing Magazine No 293 March 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: firewall
firewall
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan going for FA on a new route left of Burnt on F...
Dan going for FA on a new route left of Burnt on F...

Comments on Comales Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jfoley
May 25, 2010
Several new sport routes on and left of fire wall.
By Paul Drakos
Jul 14, 2010
Dennis Jackson's guidebook, Climbing in New Mexico, also covers Comales Canyon and has a nice sketch of the Water Wall.
The rock at Comales is the Ortega Quartzite, or an equivalent unit.
The new sport rounts on/left of the Fire Wall are decent routes that should improve with some more traffic.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 18, 2012
Info on many of the new routes in Comales Canyon is listed on Jay Foley's Mountain Skills Guide's webpage:
climbingschoolusa.com/newroute...
By djkyote
Aug 9, 2013
A link to a recent rockfall accident, maybe an issue from recent rains:

mountainproject.com/v/rockfall...

Also, I may have left a gray rainjacket there that day. If it is found, please PM me.
By tim naylor
Oct 24, 2015
after cleaning a route here when the rock was wet, WAIT 24HRS FOR THE ROCK TO DRY AFTER A SOAKING RAIN! I cleaned off 10 pieces of rock on holds that had been tested recently. A flexy flake was moving about 80% more! steeper routes that stay drier are obviously better but be aware.

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