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f. The Guides' Wall (Madame G's)
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Asphodel T 
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Beatle Brow Bulge T 
Beginner's Delight T 
Bitchy Virgin T 
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Blueberry Wine T,TR 
Columbia T 
Delusions of Grandeur T 
Finger Locks or Cedar Box T 
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Funny Face T 
Hawk T 
Hyjek's Horror T 
Immaculate Virgin T 
Le Teton T 
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst T 
Minty T 
Mr. P's Wurst T 
Northern Pillar T 
Peregrine T 
Snooky's Return T 
Son of Bitchy Virgin T 
Southern Pillar T 
Tetonia T 
Tipsy Trees T 
Triple Bulges T 
Twin Oaks T 
Unamed T 
Willie's Weep T 

Columbia 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Roy Kligfield, Dave Ingalls and Jim Driscoll (1969). FFA Joe Kelsey (1969)
Page Views: 2,479
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 11, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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BETA PHOTO: The first pitch of Columbia, which follows the obv...

Description 

The first pitch is an excellent alternate P1 for Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst if you are up to leading 5.8.

P1 - Climb the obvious curving crack and face past a bulge (harder than it looks), then up to a ledge with a tree. Either belay at the tree to TR P1 or continue onto P2 or move right on the ledge to continue up Madame G's. 5.8 G

P2 - Climb straight up the face to a pink and white left-facing corner. Climb the corner past old pins (there as of 2005) to another stance. Work past the bulge (crux), then move left around a corner. Continue up the corner to the GT ledge. 5.9 PG

Location 

At a curving crack 15 feet right of Southern Pillar and 20 feet left of the blocky start that marks P1 of Madame G's.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack.


Photos of Columbia Slideshow Add Photo
Start of P2.
Start of P2.

Comments on Columbia Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 13, 2014
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 12, 2009

The first pitch looks really easy from the ground. As such, I jumped on it. It's reasonably straight forward, then you hit the crux. The crux is more difficult than it looks, but, very doable. Nice alternative to the first pitch of Madame G's.

P2 is very fun as well.
By SethG
Jun 21, 2010

The first pitch of this route is a lot of fun. It is also totally G; I don't know why Dick gives it a PG in his guide; I placed so much gear on this short pitch! But watch out for the loose block right before the crux. I have posted a photo with the block indicated.
By doligo
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Agree with Seth - totally G. I plugged so much gear in anticipation of PG, it was ridiculous. I only did P1 - soft .8
By SethG
Nov 14, 2010

I went back to this climb and did the second pitch and I have a few more comments:

1. The loose block on pitch one (that I mentioned in June) probably isn't coming out; my partner thought it was no big deal. I still wouldn't place any gear behind it.

2. Pitch two is great! It is not a 5.9. Swain calls it 5.9-, but Williams calls it 5.7. I think it is a sustained, pumpy 5.7. The crux technical moves are the initial ones past the pins, and then it has a long overhanging jugfest similar to but longer than the ones on Strictly's and Son of Easy O P2. A hidden gem, really, although once the angle eases off the last bit of the pitch is less fun and kind of dirty.
By doligo
Nov 15, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Agree with Seth - P2 is awesome. The crux is between two pins. After that, it's a sustained but pleasant jughaul. Instead of diagonaling right to Madame G's rings, I went straight up the left-facing corner to the GT ledge just under a big roof. My partner finished on the overhang - really nice short pitch, just a tiny bit dirty. I think this is the 5.9- part. This corner roof needs more traffic.
By losbill
Mar 5, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Can anyone comment upon and/or add to the route description variation or variations to pitch 2, either before or after arching overhang, that brings you out on to the face to the right? Twice recently I have taken a look out on the face once above the overhanging bit. Didn't step out since it looked a bit stiff for my seconds at the time.
By Michal Pasniewski
Jun 20, 2011

P1 is cool and P2 is great at that level - with a definitely _not_ 5.7 crux; PG indeed. The finish is not well defined.
By Ross Fadely
Jul 10, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

P1 = short but good, barely 8-
P2 = interesting 7 to relaxed climbing
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Sep 20, 2011

I dunno, I would call it .8 first pitch and still PG. I found it really fiddly at the crux. block is good though, i yarded off that thing.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great first pitch, and the 2nd pitch becomes forgettable after about 40 or 50 ft. of climbing. The rock quality deteriorates rather quickly making the gear drastically less ideal the higher you climb. Be careful, too, as there are some large, loose blocks/flakes around.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Second pitch is pretty heady for 5.7 at the crux between the two rusty pins followed by pretty pumpy and very fun jugs. Very underrated climb.
By gcap
From: Tuxedo, NY
Oct 20, 2013

I only did P1, which was nice. As for the rating though, I don't think it's worthy of a Gunks 5.8. Compared with Raunchy (5.8, a few climbs to the right) - no comparison in difficulty. Columbia P1 is maybe a 5.7 G. Tons of pro.
By Josh Smethers
From: Malvern, pa
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The crux on this climb was a little awkward to get your body position right and felt closer to a hard 5.7 after doing City Lights. I found decent pro up to the crux, which really climbed like a 5.6. I thought it was a great lead for testing the ability to move from 5.7 to 5.8.