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Columbia Mountains

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Cariboo Mountians 
Monashee Mountains 
Purcell Mountians 
Selkirk Mountains 

Columbia Mountains  


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Location: 51.8557, -118.74395 View Map  Incorrect?
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Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 10, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: COLUMBIA MOUNTAINS: orange - Cariboos yellow - Mon...

GEOGRAPHY

Four mountain ranges make up the region called the Columbia Mountains. They are; the Purcell Mountains, Selkirk Mountains, Cariboo Mountains, and Monashee Mountains.

The Selkirk Mountains are where to find the Adamant Group, Mount Sir Sandford, Mount Sir Donald, and the Battle Range. The outstanding sport crag of Slocan Bluffs is in the Selkirks, along with all of the other Kootenay rock climbing areas around Nelson and Castlegar.

The Purcell Mountains are where to find the Bugaboos, Vowells, and Leaning Towers; the islands of good rock in a range of choss. In general, the rocks that crop out along the the logging roads of the Purcells tend to be less appealing, softer, metamorphic rocks; mica schist for example.

The Monashee Range has two groups of steep, alpine, peaks to recommend; Mt Begbie, near Revelstoke and the Mt Odin/Mt Thor peaks, above Shelter Bay on Upper Arrow Lake. South of Revelstoke, along Highway 23, there is good sport climbing on quartzite. Begbie Bluffs and Blanket Creek have lots of fixed draws on really steep stuff. Not a lot of moderates though, but enough for those who are okay with 5.10.

Caribou Mountains see mostly ski industry visitors, via choppers. William L Putnam had this to say in 1971: "There still remain a dozen unclimbed summits exceeding 9,000' in the Northernmost Cariboos." The Caribous are mostly drained by the Fraser River, but nevertheless are still is considered a range of the Columbia Mountains.

MOUNTAIN CONDITION REPORTS

Canadian mountain guides have been around a long time, more than a century now. The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides generously share their hard won observations and photographs of current conditions for both the Columbia Mountains and Canadian Rockies.




Climbing Season



Weather station 15.9 miles from here

61 Total Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',9],['5.7',3],['5.8',9],['5.9',5],['5.10',21],['5.11',11],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Columbia Mountains :
Northwest Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X     Trad, Alpine, 2400'   Selkirk Mountains : Mount Sir Donald
West Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
Kain Route (South Ridge)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
North East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Ears Between   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Towers
Wiessner's Route (aka SE Corner)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 17 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Surfs Up   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Wildflowers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Kraus-McCarthy   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 800'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
South Ridge   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'   Valhalla Mountains : Mount Gimli
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Beckey-Chouinard   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000'   Howser Towers : South Howser Tower
Paddle Flake Direct   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Furry Pink Arete   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Cooper-Kor   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, Alpine, 18 pitches, 1000'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
McTech Roof   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Super Direct   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Sunshine Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Energy Crisis   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Solitary Confinement   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Feathers
Browse More Classics in Columbia Mountains

Featured Route For Columbia Mountains
Looking down the corner and the wall to the belay ...

All Along the Watchtower 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C2- R  North America : Canada : ... : North Howser Tower
The route is s serious undertaking and was cutting edge at the time of ist F.A. It ascends a prominent line up the left side of the west face. Start from ledges where the lower wall sticks furthest into the glacier.P1-P9 Mostly 5.9 and 5.10, following cracks and dihedrals up the lower angle portion of the wall. The second will probably have to carry the bag in this section. There are very few substantial ledges here.P10-p13 The climbing starts traversing slightly to the north and angling for th...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Columbia Mountains Slideshow Add Photo
KINNAIRD BLUFFS; along the Columbia just south of ...
BETA PHOTO: KINNAIRD BLUFFS; along the Columbia just south of ...
MT SIR DONALD (3,277m) From Hwy 1, smokey skies, S...
BETA PHOTO: MT SIR DONALD (3,277m) From Hwy 1, smokey skies, S...
Ferry across the Columbia on the road from Nelson ...
Ferry across the Columbia on the road from Nelson ...
ILLECILLEWAET NEVE September 24, 2012 Forest fire ...
BETA PHOTO: ILLECILLEWAET NEVE September 24, 2012 Forest fire ...
Lake Revelstoke (Columbia River) and the Monahsee ...
BETA PHOTO: Lake Revelstoke (Columbia River) and the Monahsee ...

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