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Columbia Mountains

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Columbia Mountains  


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Submitted By: Ken Trout on Dec 10, 2010
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MT SIR DONALD (3,277m/10,818ft) Summer of 1884, Eu...

GEOGRAPHY OF THE COLUMBIA MOUNTAINS
Sunset on the Columbia Mountains. The ferry @ Gale...
Sunset on the Columbia Mountains. The ferry @ Galena Bay is free and crosses the Columbia. Which range is it?

by KT, 2012

Four mountain ranges make up the region called the Columbia Mountains. They are the Selkirk, Purcell, Monashee, and Cariboo mountains. Starting in the late 1800's, mountain climbers called the mountains east of the Canadian Rockies the Interior Ranges of British Columbia. The residents of Trail, Castlegar, Nelson, and even Kamloops tend to ignore the other two names and use the term Kootenay Rockies. So this region has three legitimate names.
The four component ranges of the Columbia Mountain...
The four component ranges of the Columbia Mountains.

The Canadian Rockies also feed the headwaters of the Columbia River but are not part of the Columbia Mountains. The Canadian Rockies are a much bigger range and very different geologically.
The name Columbia Mountains stops at the American ...
The name Columbia Mountains stops at the American border but the mountains and river do not.

The extensive alpine glaciers capping both the Columbia Mountains and Canadian Rockies are the reason that the Columbia River is the biggest river on the continent. The discharge of the Columbia River is greater than the discharge of North America's longest river, the Mississippi.
Looking south to the Illecillawaet Neve, Selkirk M...
Looking south to the Illecillawaet Neve, Selkirk Mountains

by KT, 2012


THE SELKIRK RANGE OF THE COLUMBIA MOUNTAINS
The Selkirks are where to find the Adamant Group, Mount Sir Sandford, Mount Sir Donald, the Valhallas, and the Battle Range. The peaks near Rogers Pass are the oldest climbing area on the continent. The historic climbing was all about the high peaks.
The remote west side of the Adamant Group
The remote west side of the Adamant Group


VIDEO OF MOUNT SIR DONALD
Mount Bonney, the oldest technical climb in North America, and Mount Sir Donald, the best alpine climb!! Transcript from basecamp: "Out there is the Rogers Pass highway in the valley and Mount Bonney and Sir Donald."
plus.google.com/u/0/photos/103...

ROCK CLIMBING IN THE SELKIRK MOUNTAINS
Today, good lowland rock climbing is also available. One example is Slocan Lake Bluff, located at the south end of Slocan Lake by the abandoned lumber mill in the town of Slocan. There are almost one hundred climbing routes and the approach is short, level, and partly paved. There is a campground with showers and a public beach in the town of Slocan. Personally, if my kids were still young, then Slocan is where we'd spend our climber-family vacations.
SLOCAN LAKE BLUFFS A surprisingly steep 5.6 on cha...
SLOCAN LAKE BLUFFS
A surprisingly steep 5.6 on chalk-hiding, in-cut, hand holds.


The West Kootenay Rock Guide by Aaron Kristiansen and Vince Hempsall is available at the Valhalla Pure Outfitters. Use it for all the climbing found along the Columbia and Kootenay rivers in the vicinity of Castlegar and Nelson, BC.

The best information for the alpine climbs of the Selkirks is found in Selkirks North and Selkirks South by Dave Jones, 2001.

THE PURCELL RANGE OF THE COLUMBIA MOUNTAINS
The Howser Towers from Pigeon Peak in the Bugaboos...
The Howser Towers
from Pigeon Peak in
the Bugaboos.

submitted 2014 by MP
contributor nelsonthad



GEOLOGY OF THE BUGABOOS
The Purcells are where to find the Bugaboos, Vowells, and Leaning Towers; islands of good granite in a mountain range of mostly metamorphic choss called the Shusswap Complex. After the granitic magma intrudes the soft choss and solidifies, the subsequent uplift and alpine erosion removes the choss and creates amazing summits with the hard granite. The Bugaboos, Mont Blanc, Fitzroy and Cerro Torre are all examples of similarly spectacular geologic settings.

CLIMBING IN THE PURCELLS
There are good climbing guidebooks for the Bugaboos mentioned on that page. However the only book that covers all the peaks of the Purcells is the out of print American Alpine Club Climbers Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia (See references below). For routes climbed later than 1971, outside the Bugaboos but in the Purcells, try both the Canadian Alpine Journal and American Alpine Journal.

THE MONASHEE RANGE OF THE COLUMBIA MOUNTAINS
The northern Monashee range and Columbia River fro...
The northern Monashee range and Columbia River from Mt Revelstoke.

by KT

The Monashees have two groups of steep, alpine, peaks to recommend. The most popular is Mount Begbie, a slightly technical but major peak near Revelstoke. Farther south is the group of peaks containing Mount Odin and Mount Thor. These spectacular peaks are visible from the ferry that connects Shelter Bay to Galena Bay by crossing Upper Arrow Lake.

ROCK CLIMBING IN THE MONASHEE MOUNTAINS
Between the Shelter Bay ferry and Revelstoke, along Highway 23, there is good lowland sport climbing on quartzite. Well developed sport crags are hidden in temperate rain-forest. The two main areas are Begbie Bluffs and Blanket Creek. There is a local rock climbing guide book available in the town of Revelstoke. Impressively, both areas are marked on the 5th edition of the Kootenay Rockies BC Backroad Mapbook (p34 Begbie Bluff, p35 Blanket Creek).
Blanket Creek Arete 2 pitches, 5.10  by KT
Blanket Creek Arete
2 pitches, 5.10

by KT

Perhaps the oldest and best route along the Columbia River is Sunshine Crack on the Kinnard Bluffs. This major climbing area is a few kilometers downstream from Castlegar, BC. Local climbers would say these bluffs are in the Kootenays, not the Monashees.
Sunshine Crack, 5.8  by KT 2012
Sunshine Crack, 5.8

by KT 2012


THE CARIBOO RANGE OF THE COLUMBIA MOUNTIANS
The Cariboos see mostly ski industry visitors, via choppers. William L Putnam had this to say in 1971: "There still remain a dozen unclimbed summits exceeding 9,000' in the Northernmost Cariboos." The Caribous are mostly drained by the Fraser River, but nevertheless are still is considered a range of the Columbia Mountains.

MOUNTAIN CONDITION REPORTS
Canadian mountain guides have been around a long time, more than a century now. The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides generously share their hard won observations and photographs of current conditions for both the Columbia Mountains and Canadian Rockies.

HAZARDS OF THE COLUMBIA MOUNTAINS
Rockfall!!!
Rockfall!!!

These mountains have all the hazards found in the Alps!!! Additionally, longer days to prevent summer freezes up high, some epic approaches, grizzly bears, and mean mountain goats.

REFERENCES
The Physiographic Provinces of North America by Wallace Walter Atwood, 1964.
Climbing in North America by Chris Jones, 1976
Canadian Alpine Journal (all of them)
American Alpine Journal(most of 'em)
American Alpine Club Climbers Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia by William Lowell Putnam, 1971 (The original expert on these mountains)
Cascade Alpine Guide #3 by Fred Beckey (The other expert)
Kootenay Rockies BC Backroads Mapbook, 2011 (even has climbing areas marked)
The Road Atlas by Rand McNalley, 2009 (lots of details for a large scale map)

Climbing Season



Weather station 15.9 miles from here

63 Total Routes

['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',10],['5.7',4],['5.8',9],['5.9',5],['5.10',21],['5.11',11],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Columbia Mountains :
South Ridge   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Trad, Alpine   The Bugaboos : Brenta Spire
Northwest Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X     Trad, Alpine, 2400'   Selkirk Mountains : Mount Sir Donald
West Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
Kain Route (South Ridge)   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Ears Between   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Towers
North East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Wiessner's Route (aka SE Corner)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 17 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Surfs Up   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Wildflowers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
South Ridge   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'   Valhalla Mountains : Mount Gimli
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Paddle Flake Direct   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Beckey-Chouinard   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000'   Howser Towers : South Howser Tower
Furry Pink Arete   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Super Direct   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Cooper-Kor   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R     Trad, Alpine, 18 pitches, 1000'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
McTech Roof   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Sunshine Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Solitary Confinement   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Feathers
Energy Crisis   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Browse More Classics in Columbia Mountains

Featured Route For Columbia Mountains
Conrad Kain, alpine superhero.

Kain Route (South Ridge) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  North America : Canada : ... : Bugaboo Spire
By way of the N. lateral moraine of Bugaboo glacier and snowfield to the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col above which the S. arete is followed. Scramble up ledges easily for more then 500' to the base of a steep chimney where the rope is put on. Climb chimney (120';two leads; strenuous) to crest of ridge leading to base of formidable gendarme. Two leads on the gendarme reach groove where belay is established for the crux. Leader moves up vertical wall in cracks and over left-hand corner...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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