|Penitente - Entrance Area
This is a superb pocket climb on some of the cleanest stone in Colorado. It climbs up the center of the smooth black and orange wall up and right after breaching the mouth of the Canyon, just past Mysterious Redhead. It can be recognized by its Mammut ring bolts (unless these have been replaced) and by a large pocket/hueco about 12 feet up.
Start on the ramp. An opening boulder problem gives way to yet more bouldery moves. Generally, each cruxy sequence is capped by a nice clipping/resting pocket until you reach a hard traverse left and some finishing business on tiny crimps where the wall begins to rear back.
Hit this one early in the day while it's shady or else on a cooler day -- otherwise you'll totally schralp your tips on the tiny pockets.
|By adam brink|
From: Boulder, CO
May 2, 2003
While this is a high quality route be ready for some thin crimping. between big jugs are some of the thinnest pocket crimps in the canyon. I've been focusing on this type of climbing for a number of years and thought my tendons were pretty strong until the crux move blew one of them apart. Enjoy, but warm up properly and be careful.
|By jim michael|
Jan 17, 2007
Hey guys, sorry but you have the F.A. party wrong. Dan Michael equipped and did the first ascent.
|By Jonathan Siegrist|
From: his truck
Sep 9, 2007
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c
F--king brilliant. Best of the hard climbs in the Canyon on a magnificently beautiful wall. Yes
|By Ben Scott|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 9, 2009
13a huh? hands down the hardest 13a I have ever tried.
Some of the hardest face climbing I've ever seen on a sport route.
I fell on the upper crux second try, but still felt more like b or c.
Do Not Get On This Route if you hate small holds!
|By chris schulte|
Aug 26, 2010
Brutal and consistent V7+...+