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5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.9 from 13 votes
Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Dan Michael |
Page Views: | 6,915 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned User on Dec 6, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Limited access Oct. 15-17, 2021
Details
Per Wes O'Rourke: there will be limited access October 15th-17th. The first annual True Penitence Climbing Festival will take place October 15th-17th, 2021. The festival will be reserving all campsites and parking lots at the main canyon on October 15th and 16th. Participation in all festival events will require registration for the festival. The canyon will still be open to the public for day use, but please plan accordingly, as camping is not available on site and parking will be restricted. Also, the climbing competition on Saturday the 16th will be asking the general public to yield to all competition climbers, as competing climbers will be heavily using most of the routes in the canyon. Please consider climbing elsewhere during the festival if you don't want to participate.
Description
This is a superb pocket climb on some of the cleanest stone in Colorado. It climbs up the center of the smooth black and orange wall up and right after breaching the mouth of the Canyon, just past Mysterious Redhead. It can be recognized by its Mammut ring bolts (unless these have been replaced) and by a large pocket/hueco about 12 feet up.
Start on the ramp. An opening boulder problem gives way to yet more bouldery moves. Generally, each cruxy sequence is capped by a nice clipping/resting pocket until you reach a hard traverse left and some finishing business on tiny crimps where the wall begins to rear back.
Hit this one early in the day while it's shady or else on a cooler day -- otherwise you'll totally schralp your tips on the tiny pockets.
Start on the ramp. An opening boulder problem gives way to yet more bouldery moves. Generally, each cruxy sequence is capped by a nice clipping/resting pocket until you reach a hard traverse left and some finishing business on tiny crimps where the wall begins to rear back.
Hit this one early in the day while it's shady or else on a cooler day -- otherwise you'll totally schralp your tips on the tiny pockets.
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