Colorado's Cloudy Skies
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Just getting to the base of the route.
This is a very aesthetic, curving crack that splits the main face of Lincoln's Wall.
Start by soloing to the base of the obvious crack roughly 20 feet or so depending on how you do it. Once you get some gear proceed to aid up the crack with bushes that angles slightly left until just before it starts to peter out and head more left, at which point you cross over to the crack on your right. Once in the right crack, you keep going up it all the way as it curves through the steep/ slightly overhanging headwall through the top. This has a great position.
Eds. note this is a submission for a previously freed line (1985), Jabba, which has subsequently been added to the database. See page 175 of Peter Hubbel's 1993 Front Range Crags.
This will be the first or second thing you will see as you come around the corner from above, it's pretty obvious.
What I used:
I had a set of nuts in the mid to large size range (might have been easier with a better variety and possibly more, but I had lost my small to mid size set recently), a set of sliding nuts, doubles from blue Alien through #3 Camalot (yellow and red TCUs I found to be quite useful and I was wishing I had more of, I had 3 in the red size) I also ended up using the pink and red tricams I had. Alot in the fingers to 0.75 range. Hybrid Aliens were nice, wished I had 2 sets and full sets at that, not just singles of green thru red(I think that would probly make this thing c1). #8 BD hex was useful (or 3 #2 Camalots), I found a 3.5 and #4 Camalot worked well in one pod together. Be careful toping out, you use a flake that seems a little questionable. Tread lightly!
Getting established after the bushes. The weather ...
Traversing from left to right.
A bit higher up after the traverse running it out ...
Working on pulling some gear to make upward progre...
Just starting to get soaked, it got wet enough I e...
More soaking and worrying about lightning, eventua...
Almost topped out, at the flake.
Out from under the rocks finally! Once I back clea...
BETA PHOTO: Jabba/Colorado Cloudy Skies is labeled in the uppe...
BETA PHOTO: CCS/Jabba, such an inviting line....
|Comments on Colorado's Cloudy Skies
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 10, 2008
Bring 2 60m ropes because you have to go about 50' uphill and slightly left from where you top out to where there are boulders solid enough to anchor off.
This thing could go free, but it won't be easy that's for sure.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Jul 13, 2008
Peter Prandoni and I did do it free about twenty years ago. It was slimed a bit, and so named Jabba, but I like Jason's name better.
7/24/08 Two hand drilled, 1/2" bolts for an anchor. A 70m will reach the ground. 5.10 finger-jams and laybacks in abundance, maybe 5.11- with the endurance factor. Morning sun.
Jason, it was never written up, other than a name on my map in the 1989 Rock & Ice article. We both made a really good find...right on the road!
|By Jason Kaplan|
From: Glenwood ,Co
Jul 16, 2008
Thanks for adding that, Ken, I was wondering if that was in fact Jabba, but I had no way of knowing. Was this ever published? I am glad you like the name, I think any line worth doing shoud have a good name.
Hey thanks for adding the anchor, are there rings or links on those suckers? That will be a good project for me maybe next year as I have to take it easy for the rest of this one probably. Sprained my ankle pretty good this time. It's been a month, and I'm still feeling it.