By James Beissel From Boulder, CO Mar 12, 2008
| Boulder isn't exactly an offwidth mecca, but it's still cold in Vedauwoo so I'm trying to stay entertained. Please help me build my list of offwidths in the Boulder area.
Easiest -> Hardest
Huston Crack, Cob Rock Skunk Crack, Castle Rock Funeral March, West Ridge Grand Giraffe P3, Redgarden Wall By Gully, Castle Rock Bacon Bits, Physical Crag Umph Slot, The Dome Bacon and Ergs, Physical Crag
Unsorted Captain Beyond P4, Mickey Mouse Wall Simian's Way P2, Mickey Mouse Wall Diving Board P4, Redgarden Wall On-Slot, Continental Crag Animal Magnetism, (Closed) Acrophile, South Saint Vrain Crack of Desperation, Boulder Canyon
Honorable Mention (wide cracks that don't necessarily require OW technique) Grandmother's Challenge, Redgarden Wall Coffin Crack, Castle Rock Athlete's Feat (P2, P3), Castle Rock West Buttress (P2), Bastille |  |
By Tim Stich From Colorado Springs, Colorado Mar 12, 2008
| Come down to the Springs and do Monster Crack, Max's Mahem and the last pitch of Anaconda. Don't forget the Hesse Chimney just out of old Eldora. Consult Angry for a full list. |  |
By James Beissel From Boulder, CO Mar 12, 2008
| I'll put Hessie down in the "Honorable Mention" category of stuff that is wide but doesn't require significant OW technique.
Tim, maybe you can show me around for an afternoon at the Garden sometime. |  |
By Wayne Crill Mar 12, 2008
| James, p2 of simian's way on micky mouse and the last pitch of the diving board immediately come to mind. However, you cannot climb either till august. |  |
By James Beissel From Boulder, CO Mar 12, 2008
| Nice, forgot about Diving Board. Just remembered Captain Beyond has OW pitch as well. |  |
By Kevin Stricker From Evergreen, CO Mar 12, 2008
| If the Platte is not too far for you here are a few:
Piranha - Top of the World
The Aerie - Top of the World
The Dungeon - The Castle
Not exactly in Boulder but climbable right now. |  |
By James Beissel From Boulder, CO Mar 12, 2008
| I'm really looking for stuff within 30min of Boulder with easy access. I have plenty of stuff on my plate otherwise. It would be great to put together a circuit if there were enough. |  |
By John Langston Mar 12, 2008
| Other than your list, I can only think of things bordering Boulder.
Crack of Fear in Lumpy and possibly off limits. Maelstrom in Splatte and off limits until August For Turkeys Only at Turkey and hard as hell
Also something supposedly up North St. Vrain somewhere, super hard, private property, lots of rumors. No real idea.
Do the Umph Slot from right side and left side. It's a lot different each way.
The crown jewel of Colorado OW's is also in the vicinity but that's all I'm saying. |  |
By John Langston Mar 12, 2008
| Kevin Stricker wrote: The Castle
Just say when |  |
By James Beissel From Boulder, CO Mar 12, 2008
| There has to be more stuff up in Saint Vrain. I've 'shwacked up the hillside to several that looked good from afar but were a let down up close. |  |
By John Langston Mar 12, 2008
| Supposedly 12 something, supposedly unrepeated, that's all I know. I can't remember who did it. Scarpelli might know where it is though I don't think he's tried it. |  |
By Tim Stich From Colorado Springs, Colorado Mar 12, 2008
| Weekdays are good right now, James. The only offwidth pitch I did last year was the last pitch on Darkstar on Cathedral Wall in the Park. It actually required some chimneying. Shweet. Oh, did a few wide sections in Vedauwoo, too. Forgot. |  |
By slim Mar 12, 2008
| john are you talking about the one on the road up to estes? if so, i think it is 'animal magnetism' and possibly skip guerrin FA. you can see it up on the north hillside. looks like tight chicken wings out an offset roof with a skewed crack. do it and report back ASAP. did you get on for turkeys? cory got on it a while back and said that it felt harder than lucille. good times.
most of the OW's immediately around boulder are pretty short. kind of like most of the routes around boulder. one pretty good one that isn't too hard is crack of desperation on vampire rock up in boulder canyon.
if you are wanting to bone up on the OW's, lumpy or the platte will be your best bet. |  |
By Tim Stich From Colorado Springs, Colorado Mar 12, 2008
| Lucille looked mighty hard. Sheesh. That's gotta be hard, that other 'un. |  |
By splattipus Mar 12, 2008
| "Do you want some more?, well here's some more." Bishop offwidth, The Bishop No more Mr. White guy, Boulder Pile Hand Job,West side cynical |  |
By Brian Milhaupt From Golden, CO Mar 12, 2008
| Something uphill from the River Wall at Buttonrock res. I haven't climbed it, but sounds interesting. |  |
By Jason Haas From Westminster, CO Mar 12, 2008
| Animal Magnetism is closed, but for historical purposes, it is 5.12c FA: Randy Leavitt 1982. |  |
By Thom Engelbach Mar 12, 2008
| Unfortunately, the best offwidths in Colorado are in Utah..... |  |
By Dana Prosser From boulder,co Mar 12, 2008
| Here are a few suggestions for Boulder canyon: Bong session 5.10a- Black widow Crack of desperation 5.10a- Vampire rock Get smart 5.10d- Security risk Crack of dawn 5.10a- Sleeping beauty Coffin crack 5.10b- Castle rock Skunk crack 5.9- " Baily's overhang 5.8- "
Ah, Offwidth........ |  |
By Bob D'Antonio From Superior, CO Mar 13, 2008
| Jason Haas wrote: Animal Magnetism is closed, but for historical purposes, it is 5.12c FA: Randy Leavitt 1982.
Private property, look for Glenn Randall's Vertigo Games.
Split Rocks also has some great old Gill problems. |  |
By Ben Faber From Benfield, Kolorado Mar 13, 2008
| Kevin,
You've done Dungeon, too? Cool. Not too many folk have done it and it's reasonble. I got Slim talked into doing it soon and he'll crush it.
Crown Jewel at the Castle has a 9+/10- OW pitch on it, but I'm thinking it would be shady. Sidewinder at Turkey Rock isn't too bad, either. I'd consider Kor's Flake at Lumpy an (easy) OW, too. I would think it be warm if the sun is out. Most of the other nearby OWs have already been mentioned. |  |
By James Beissel From Boulder, CO Mar 13, 2008
| Thanks for all of the suggestions, I still have hope there is a mean offwidth waiting to be climbed in up in the canyons. |  |
By James Beissel From Boulder, CO Mar 13, 2008
| SWEEEEEEEET! goatboy you just made my day, seriously. |  |
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