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By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2008
Ghostride da whip!

Boulder isn't exactly an offwidth mecca, but it's still cold in Vedauwoo so I'm trying to stay entertained. Please help me build my list of offwidths in the Boulder area.

Easiest -> Hardest

Huston Crack, Cob Rock
Skunk Crack, Castle Rock
Funeral March, West Ridge
Grand Giraffe P3, Redgarden Wall
By Gully, Castle Rock
Bacon Bits, Physical Crag
Umph Slot, The Dome
Bacon and Ergs, Physical Crag


Unsorted
Captain Beyond P4, Mickey Mouse Wall
Simian's Way P2, Mickey Mouse Wall
Diving Board P4, Redgarden Wall
On-Slot, Continental Crag
Animal Magnetism, (Closed)
Acrophile, South Saint Vrain
Crack of Desperation, Boulder Canyon

Honorable Mention (wide cracks that don't necessarily require OW technique)
Grandmother's Challenge, Redgarden Wall
Coffin Crack, Castle Rock
Athlete's Feat (P2, P3), Castle Rock
West Buttress (P2), Bastille

By Tim Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 12, 2008
Looking down from Notchtop

Come down to the Springs and do Monster Crack, Max's Mahem and the last pitch of Anaconda. Don't forget the Hesse Chimney just out of old Eldora. Consult Angry for a full list.

By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2008
Ghostride da whip!

I'll put Hessie down in the "Honorable Mention" category of stuff that is wide but doesn't require significant OW technique.

Tim, maybe you can show me around for an afternoon at the Garden sometime.

By Wayne Crill
Mar 12, 2008

James, p2 of simian's way on micky mouse and the last pitch of the diving board immediately come to mind. However, you cannot climb either till august.

By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2008
Ghostride da whip!

Nice, forgot about Diving Board. Just remembered Captain Beyond has OW pitch as well.

By Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Mar 12, 2008
Noah's first rope...kinda.

If the Platte is not too far for you here are a few:

Piranha - Top of the World

The Aerie - Top of the World

The Dungeon - The Castle

Not exactly in Boulder but climbable right now.

By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2008
Ghostride da whip!

I'm really looking for stuff within 30min of Boulder with easy access. I have plenty of stuff on my plate otherwise. It would be great to put together a circuit if there were enough.

By John Langston
Mar 12, 2008

Other than your list, I can only think of things bordering Boulder.

Crack of Fear in Lumpy and possibly off limits.
Maelstrom in Splatte and off limits until August
For Turkeys Only at Turkey and hard as hell

Also something supposedly up North St. Vrain somewhere, super hard, private property, lots of rumors. No real idea.

Do the Umph Slot from right side and left side. It's a lot different each way.

The crown jewel of Colorado OW's is also in the vicinity but that's all I'm saying.

By John Langston
Mar 12, 2008

Kevin Stricker wrote:
The Castle


Just say when

By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2008
Ghostride da whip!

There has to be more stuff up in Saint Vrain. I've 'shwacked up the hillside to several that looked good from afar but were a let down up close.

By John Langston
Mar 12, 2008

Supposedly 12 something, supposedly unrepeated, that's all I know. I can't remember who did it. Scarpelli might know where it is though I don't think he's tried it.

By Tim Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 12, 2008
Looking down from Notchtop

Weekdays are good right now, James. The only offwidth pitch I did last year was the last pitch on Darkstar on Cathedral Wall in the Park. It actually required some chimneying. Shweet. Oh, did a few wide sections in Vedauwoo, too. Forgot.

By slim
Mar 12, 2008

john are you talking about the one on the road up to estes? if so, i think it is 'animal magnetism' and possibly skip guerrin FA. you can see it up on the north hillside. looks like tight chicken wings out an offset roof with a skewed crack. do it and report back ASAP. did you get on for turkeys? cory got on it a while back and said that it felt harder than lucille. good times.

most of the OW's immediately around boulder are pretty short. kind of like most of the routes around boulder. one pretty good one that isn't too hard is crack of desperation on vampire rock up in boulder canyon.

if you are wanting to bone up on the OW's, lumpy or the platte will be your best bet.

By Tim Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Mar 12, 2008
Looking down from Notchtop

Lucille looked mighty hard. Sheesh. That's gotta be hard, that other 'un.

By splattipus
Mar 12, 2008

"Do you want some more?, well here's some more."
Bishop offwidth, The Bishop
No more Mr. White guy, Boulder Pile
Hand Job,West side cynical

By Brian Milhaupt
From Golden, CO
Mar 12, 2008

Something uphill from the River Wall at Buttonrock res. I haven't climbed it, but sounds interesting.

By Jason Haas
From Westminster, CO
Mar 12, 2008

Animal Magnetism is closed, but for historical purposes, it is 5.12c FA: Randy Leavitt 1982.

By Thom Engelbach
Mar 12, 2008

Unfortunately, the best offwidths in Colorado are in Utah.....

By Dana Prosser
From boulder,co
Mar 12, 2008

Here are a few suggestions for Boulder canyon:
Bong session 5.10a- Black widow
Crack of desperation 5.10a- Vampire rock
Get smart 5.10d- Security risk
Crack of dawn 5.10a- Sleeping beauty
Coffin crack 5.10b- Castle rock
Skunk crack 5.9- "
Baily's overhang 5.8- "

Ah, Offwidth........

By Bob D'Antonio
From Superior, CO
Mar 13, 2008
Bob D and Bob Wade on maybe the third or fourth ascent.

Jason Haas wrote:
Animal Magnetism is closed, but for historical purposes, it is 5.12c FA: Randy Leavitt 1982.



Private property, look for Glenn Randall's Vertigo Games.

Split Rocks also has some great old Gill problems.

By Ben Faber
From Benfield, Kolorado
Mar 13, 2008

Kevin,

You've done Dungeon, too? Cool. Not too many folk have done it and it's reasonble. I got Slim talked into doing it soon and he'll crush it.

Crown Jewel at the Castle has a 9+/10- OW pitch on it, but I'm thinking it would be shady.
Sidewinder at Turkey Rock isn't too bad, either.
I'd consider Kor's Flake at Lumpy an (easy) OW, too. I would think it be warm if the sun is out.
Most of the other nearby OWs have already been mentioned.

By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Mar 13, 2008
Ghostride da whip!

Thanks for all of the suggestions, I still have hope there is a mean offwidth waiting to be climbed in up in the canyons.

By goatboy
Mar 13, 2008

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_c>>>>>

By Sergio P
From Idaho Springs, CO
Mar 13, 2008
World Champion NY Giants logo

Gates of Eden is somewhat OW. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_ca>>>>>

There is some thrashing to be found, but there are also some jams way back in the crack.

By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From North Vancouver, BC
Mar 13, 2008
Starting the fourth class downclimb.  Photo by Ted. August 2007.

Dreams Of Darkness
and
Dreams Of Light
and maybe this qualifies too
Sick and Wrong
all in Eldo up at Sobo.

By James Beissel
From Boulder, CO
Mar 13, 2008
Ghostride da whip!

SWEEEEEEEET! goatboy you just made my day, seriously.


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