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The 2010 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread
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Mar 13, 2011
Jaws.
Jaws.

Jaws and that entire wall near the Fern Lake trailhead is rotting out.

Guide's Wall.
Guide's Wall.

Guide's Wall.

Grace Falls.
Grace Falls.

Grace Falls.

Hot Doggies.
Hot Doggies.

Hot Doggies.
Leo Paik
From Westminster, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,170 points
Mar 14, 2011
You can love your rope but you can't "LOVE&qu...
Ouray Ice Park was fat & fun this weekend (3/12-13) and 100% open but man was it warm. Get some soon. Lee Smith
Joined Sep 5, 2003
1,686 points
Mar 14, 2011
me on my redpoint
Vail is still in very nice. The Rigid Designator is in prime condition, super fun just did it for the first time on Sunday. Ice in the Belfry Cave is pretty wet but Spiral Area and Designator area are great. Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Mar 14, 2011
me on my redpoint
The Rigid Designator.
The Rigid Designator.
Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Mar 21, 2011
Backflip, Lumpy Ridge
Anyone been up to Hidden Falls lately? I would imagine its in pretty bad shape. John Klooster
From Arvada, CO
Joined Dec 12, 2004
21 points
Mar 21, 2011
Lamb's Slide
Chris Plesko wrote:
Lincoln is fatty fat fat and lots of options for lines (wi2+ to wi4-). Nothing really steep but plenty to spread out the crowds. Some mank from snow and the usual dinner plates but it's actually not that hooked/stepped out at all. Water is running with the warmer temps but nothing unpleasant. Have fun, spring will be melting our fun soon...


As of yesterday, Lincoln is still fat and fun, as described above.
Rocky_Mtn_High
From Arvada, CO
Joined Apr 14, 2010
195 points
Mar 21, 2011
Ouray Ice Park
I second that. It was really good yesterday with some good warm up and a couple WI3+ opportunities. Lots of overflow in the south ampitheater as well. Plus there is a nice smear to the right of the main flow that provides some spicy mixed choices.

Blog update should be coming soon with some pictures.

white-knuckled.blogspot.com
BryanV
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Nov 14, 2008
30 points
Mar 21, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
Vail was very drippy last week but with a freeze it's just getting fatter in a lot of places. The Dez was still good to go. Pumphouse had some funky funky surface ice, esp down low. Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Mar 22, 2011
hiking 8-5-09 (Don't chase the rabbit!!!)
As of Saturday the Silverton area was fatty blue. STH looked fantastic, didn't get on it due to lack of partner. However did see one party on it while rapping 1st Gully. As always be aware of avy conditions, recent slides (tracks and debris) were visible EVERYWHERE! It is a little hairy having bits and pieces roll down a gully and hit you. Ice was much harder than in the FR, suppose Astro picks didn't help much..
Ice park is falling apart..
Cheers,
-Z
Phoenix
From louisville, colorado
Joined Jul 23, 2008
315 points
Mar 22, 2011
after climbing brain freeze
IS ALEXANDER'S CHIMNEY IN/DOABLE? Chacal
Joined Nov 17, 2010
228 points
Mar 24, 2011
On Bridelveil
Has anybody been up to see the conditions on the north face of Pikes Peak? Particularly Total Abandon or Blind Assumption? Daniel Battin
From Green Mtn. Falls, CO
Joined Nov 26, 2006
370 points
Mar 27, 2011
A short M4 climb in the School Room @ Ouray
I think that this may not need to be said but the clear creek ice season is over... the west most flow is no longer in enough to get to the top on pure ice, the eastern flow is really really thin an hollow.

If you do go please don't just become another statistic.
Keith H. North
From Englewood, CO
Joined Mar 29, 2010
146 points
Mar 27, 2011
Backflip, Lumpy Ridge
Anyone been to Vail lately? What are conditions looking like at Firehouse, Staircase and Ampitheater areas? John Klooster
From Arvada, CO
Joined Dec 12, 2004
21 points
Mar 27, 2011
drove past Vail yesterday. Rig Dez looked like it was still in, as well as a few others in the vicinity. Nick Przybysz
From Boulder, CO
Joined Oct 2, 2009
49 points
Mar 27, 2011
My climbing partner and I got most of the way to the top of STH in Eureka/Silverton on Thursday. Snow conditions on the approach seemed bomber, and the ice is super fat and blue. If you keep your eyes on the temperatures and the weather in the area, I suspect this ice flow will stay in for quite a while. We got a late start and decided to bail at what we suspect was pitch 4 or 5, we really ran em out to move faster. Some sun baked stuff about 500/600 ft up but not too bad. Be careful of knocking off big chunks of ice on to your partner. Go get on it before all the ice runs away! DGavelis
Joined Nov 29, 2010
5 points
Mar 27, 2011
The transfer to ice...in this case a horizontal, w...
While alot of ice is melting in Colorado, Canada is doing good for those heading there soon. Sea of Vapors on the Trophy Wall is in mighty good shape! In easy WI5 condition right now with one mixed move. (M4?) Of what originally was graded WI7+ R. That climb alone is worth the 20 hour drive. Go get it! It's quite the place up there.

Sea of Vapors is the right line.
Sea of Vapors is the right line.

On lead of P3.
On lead of P3.

Almost to the top. Kurt Ross following.
Almost to the top. Kurt Ross following.

Jeff leading The Replicant in WI6+ conditions. Loo...
Jeff leading The Replicant in WI6+ conditions. Looked desperate!
Noah8000
From Vail, CO
Joined Jul 15, 2010
979 points
Mar 28, 2011
Leading up a super fun 5.9 out in the Galapagos of...
Noah, you know what happens when you post about Canadian ice right?
You have to buy me a plane ticket to Canada and be my climbing partner for a week. :D

Looks like you all had a good time up there... if only it were a little closer.
Thanks for the post.
Bryan Hendrick
From Leadville, CO
Joined Dec 16, 2008
67 points
Mar 29, 2011
Wet start pitch 1. In the spring, this is complete...
Looking for ice climbing partners. Eric Wright
From Telluride CO.
Joined Dec 26, 2009
1,251 points
Mar 30, 2011
me on my redpoint
Stairway to Heaven is in great shape in Silverton, did it last weekend.
March 25, 2011.
March 25, 2011.


Just below 1st pitch.
Just below 1st pitch.


Crux pitch.
Crux pitch.


Last pitch.
Last pitch.
Dave Cummings
From Grand Junction, CO
Joined Jul 3, 2007
213 points
Apr 2, 2011
Indian Creek Climbing
Avocado Gully is almost out for the season

I would say 1 to 2 more weeks
coop
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Jan 25, 2005
545 points
Apr 3, 2011
Bouldering shot taken by Tim Banfield
Lincoln Falls is still in great!! Super fat and awesome. It was a great day on great ice till the blizzard ran us off. Justin Brown
From Colorado Springs, Co
Joined Feb 21, 2011
55 points
Apr 4, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
How is Vail hanging? Looking to get out tomorrow and the recent snow has me looking for avy safe routes.

Also open to other FR suggestions, WI4/5, m4-7 depending on bolts or gear. Multi pitch would be great but I'll take what I can get.

Thanks!
Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Joined Oct 18, 2007
560 points
Apr 4, 2011
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.
Brain Freeze in RMNP was in great shape on Sunday. Very cold up there today so even firmer and likely great manana. With all the fresh snow it wouldn't be smart to be hanging out up there in the heat.

Put up a new conditions report for RMNP here - enjoy!
Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 12, 2001
1,028 points
Apr 8, 2011
801.
Vail Conditions: Vail is in stellar shape despite the warming temps. The Fang has finally formed enough to be climbed and it saw it's first lead. It was a long wait and I really thought I wouldn't get a chance to climb it this year (not into top-roping routes like this), but the 20-40 temps helped alot. I climbed straight on the front, gapping the upper/lower mushroom (Cruxy on shitty, thin death flakes) and pushed (not screwed) some gear in the foamy base of the pillar. The pillar was a bit wet on one side and brittle/cicled on the other. Monos were tough as they sheared a bit through the 20' fragile pillar, not a good place to lose your feet. Sketchy hooks led to bomber ice above the fractured roof. There was nothing safe about the route, and 3 of the 5 screws would have probably held. Don't even think about placing pro in the pillar. Kinda was like a solo, for the most part, delicate, bold and heady but not strenuous, I'd give it a WI5+ R/X. Warmer temps are predicted for all of next week, this may be the end???...get on it!

The warmer temps are great for the drytool lines and ice routes like the Desi, Staircase, Belfry and 7th are all in great, although the composition of some surface ice is changing. Check out all the new drytool lines like Kozata Baba M6+, Hair of the Bear M7, and The Mauling M8.

Below is a link to the Fang lead a friend videoed from his home, across the I-70 highway. Elias apologizes that he didn't have time to link in some Disco.


Keeping my head together up on the delicate pillar...
Keeping my head together up on the delicate pillar.
Rob Griz
From Frisco
Joined Feb 3, 2008
1,444 points
Apr 8, 2011
Bouldering shot taken by Tim Banfield
Was in Ouray climbing Wednesday we did Fractured Fairytales in the CampBird Rd skylight area. Ouray's Ice is there but def wet and sunbleached in alot of parts. FF was some good ice with some real shitty ice more of the latter. Good mixed route though. We moved onto Telluride on Thurs. Climbed in Bear Creek Gorge. Really fat ice but running water behind alot of it, some steep shit still in. But while Eric was climbing the climb to our right totally ripped off and collapsed. Bridalveil and Telluride's Fang looked good though. Thanks Eric for partnering up and climbing some so so and good ice this week. Get on it the ice isnt going to be around much longer. Justin Brown
From Colorado Springs, Co
Joined Feb 21, 2011
55 points


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