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Name that route: above Autumn in Dream Canyon

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By Eric Peers
Mar 6, 2008

Howdy,

I was on Autumn (or at least I think it was autumn) on saturday afternoon. After wading through a foot of snow to get there (in my tevas), we roped up and did the first two pitches.

As near I can tell, p2 of Autumn ends at the top of a shallow, slabby dihedral (with a nice arete 10 feet to the right). The traditional finish seems to go up and left from there?

I ended up clipping the first bolt and then running 25 feet diagonally right up a layback #5 camalot crack to a pair of big fat red anchors. Step back left 5 feet - there was then a bolt on a diamond shaped face above. Then another one before a steep roof with nice underclings on the lefthand side. (hard here) Then a few holds up and right, another 2 bolts. 6 feet between bolts after this, a little crack above and left underneath a sloping ledge. Then 2 more I think to the finish. 6-7 bolts, pretty thin, 40 feet, I'd probably give it 5.12b? But the moves were all there - I wonder if it was easier than 12b and I simply missed some of the movement?

Very cool climb - I ended up doing a full extension lefthand mantle off a sloping ledge to a right hand sidepull at the penultimate bolt. Then reaching around left into a groove and getting another sidepull. The route seemed a little chossy since I broke a bunch of flakes down onto my wife. But overall quite cool.

anybody know what I climbed? er... hung on?

Thanks!
--eric


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