Looking for some suggestions for good Eldo 5.9's. Let's be honest I can lead 5.9 in boulder canyon but Eldo is really a different story. Just looking for some opinions on some good non sandbagged 5.9's. I was thinking about Peanuts or the Green Spur. Please let me know what you think, yes I am a pansy and I am 99% sure I am ready to lead at this level in Eldo but I'm looking for some confidence building routes. Thanks for your help.

David

I know you said 5.9s but i couldn't help but suggest Star Wars 5.8 on lower penuts wall. A must do. You could warm up on star wars then do peanuts? Just a thought.

David,

First pitch of Werks Up
Green Spur
Cest la Morte
Flakes
Touch & Go
Peanuts
Heavy Weather
Long John Wall
Emerald City or Over & Out to last pitch of Over the Hill

That should keep you busy for the weekend....

Enjoy!

I like the long John Wall so much I want to take it out behind the high school and get it pregnant

Yellow Spur for certain

The Green Spur - good gear, hard moves -- this is a good one to measure up to an Eldo .9; I got worked over on it. (Course, they said climb it straight on, making it hard). This route is really cool. If you do blow it, the gear is bomber.

The Great Zot.

P1 of Pony Express. LJW, cool. Chianti & the Unsaid, also cool.

Werk Supp & Yellow Spur - man, I think you need to be at the top of your Eldo .9 to go for the onsights.

C'est La Morte & Star Wars are must do's for me also. (being such a crack hound, I can't believe I haven't sampled Star Wars yet).

Only go for the Yellow Spur if you are feeling solid and make sure you don't take the 10c bolted variation directly above the crux pin ladder. The Yellow Spur also has several hard (I thought, for the grade anyway) 5.8 pitches.

Definitely Touch and Go!! Sandbegged 5.8= perfect 9 to some (I still think it's 5.8)

P1 of Pony Express Is a great 9

The Green Spur P1&2 link up great for 200ft pitch!!

Ruper is an AWESOME multi pitch 5.8 that'll make you happy.

More fun long 5.9's:

T1.9 - avoids the first pitch of T2, see Ron Olsen's description under T2

Ruper with the Rover dihedral variation

Gambit (OK this is only 5.8), or do the Ginseng Junkie 3rd pitch

I thought Gambit was awesome. I got to lead the first pitch and it was a cool pitch to lead. The rest of the climb is even better, If you want an easy, very short, dihedral and you feel like hiking, you should check out Let it Vee (5.7),Cadillac crag. Then you could do V3(5.8) next to it. I didn't lead V3, my friend did. The lead might have been a little scary for me, but it was fun to follow. Plus you could also check out Moonlight drive sometime (Cadi crag), it's a 5.10 and I certainly didn't lead that, but it's a super cool climb, the arete was so fun to climb up and the Cadillac is cool and worth the hike,if you ask me.

Patty : >

defiantly climb Gonzo/Deviant if you up at the Cadillac. Doesn't get a good rating on this website(gonzo) but it is one of my favorites.

Thank you everyone for all your help. I've got a lot of ideas now and I'll get to work this weekend.

I wanted to climb Gonzo too, but we climbed Deviant instead, which was a good choice, because it's so cool and super pumpy, it's a good climb to do when you're feeling strong. I'm glad I didn't have to lead it, but if you want to lead a stout 5.9, it's great I'm sure. It was fun to climb though....

1. West Buttress
2. Anthill Direct
3. Heavy Weather
4. Green Spur
5. Perversion(my favorite)
6. Out to Lunge

Is Mickey Mouse part of Eldo now? Regardless, Perversion rocks! As I remember, the hardest move is stepping off the block onto the route.

Both Anthill Direct and Perversion are closed to climbing, prob. until August.

LJW is great but avoid it in the direct sun or bring enough water because it's rough if you go for it anyway. Gambit is also a must do if you haven't yet. Although both of those are only 5.8's last time I checked. Oh BTW personaly I will never again lead the 5.5 first pitch on LJW just FYI.

What are some good well protected routes in the 9 range to prepare for the yellow spur? I would love to tick that off this summer but first I guess I should hit Rewritten first to get used to the redgarden wall, and probly deviant to make sure I can handle some tough 5.9 trad in eldo. any other suggestions?