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DescriptionExcellent traditional crack climbing and great bouldering on the metamorphic granite/gniess canyon walls and large Dakota snadstone blocks of Unaweep Canyon half an hour from Grand Junction. The routes ascend canyon walls via cracks of all sizes and difficulties for up to nine pitches. Lines are clean and sustained; thousands of interesting options exist. Getting ThereWestern Colorado, South of Grand Junction between Whitewater and Gateway along CO Hwy 141. From Boulder take I-70 West to Hwy 50 in Grand Junction towards Ouray (Delta, Montrose). Turn right on 141 and follow it into the Canyon. Bouldering is found on the hundreds of sandstone blocks visible from CO 141 on your way into the canyon. Sunday Wall and Hidden Valley are located on Access Fund property 2 miles West of Divide Road. Camping can be found on BLM land along Divide Road as well as along CO 141, Divide Road is cleaner and quieter but there is excellent bouldering along CO 141. Bring water. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Unaweep Canyon:
Beginner's Luck 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Access Fund Trailhead : Sunday Wall
Dovercourt 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Sun Towers
Welcoming Party 5.7+ Trad Mother's Buttress : Lower Mother's Buttress
Three's Company 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet The Access Fund Trailhead : Sunday Wall
Sunup 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : Sun Towers
Sun Dancer 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, 160 feet The Access Fund Trailhead : Sunday Wall
Mint Jam 5.8+ Trad Mother's Buttress : Lower Mother's Buttress
Fine Line, A 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Mother's Buttress : Lower Mother's Buttress
Sweet Sunday Serenade 5.9 Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II The Access Fund Trailhead : Sunday Wall
Questions and Answers 5.10 Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III Mother's Buttress : Upper Mother's Buttress
The Lord of Wisdom 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Mother's Buttress : Lower Mother's Buttress
Black Dynamite 5.10c/d Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet The Access Fund Trailhead : Sunday Wall
Renaissance 5.10d Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet The Access Fund Trailhead : Fortress Wall
Catch a Wave 5.11a Sport The Access Fund Trailhead : Sunday Wall
Jagged Edge 5.11- Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Mother's Buttress : Middle Mother's
Featured Route For Unaweep Canyon
Mono Pocket Rocket V5 CO : Grand Junction : ... : Late Bloomer Boulder Area
Start on a diagonal rail and move out right and up. eventually hitting the crux mono pocket move... very fun and challenging....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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