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Tanner Dome
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.54 Chunk 'o Lead 
30,000 Casualties 
Amp Right 
Chickamauga 
Clippers and Saws 
Harper's Ferry 
Pendejo 
Unknown 

30,000 Casualties 

5.10

   

FA: Lumsford/Schmausser
Type: Trad, Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 890 page views

Submitted By: Joe Collins on Oct 24, 2004


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30,000 Casualities

Steeper than it looks.



Description 

This climb is located on the Civil Wall, immediately to the right of Tanner Dome.

Just right of the chimney which marks the start of several climbs on Civil Wall, this excellent mixed route climbs the most obvious weakness on a steep pink-granite face.

The first part climbs a trickier-than-it-looks face past bolts to an exciting stand-up move over a bulge. Those with more patience than I may be able to better protect with RPs in a seam here. Clip another bolt, then traverse left to the crack. Jam the steep crack up to a ledge, then wander up featured rock to the anchor. The crack is strenuous and very crystalline, so you may want to consider taping.


Protection 

QDs and standard rack to 2 inches.



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By Nelson Lunsford
Nov 12, 2007

Thanks Joe for the comments on 30,000. This is a very fun route with a short crack section needing traditional gear. One #3, #2, #1, #0.75, and a #0.5 Camalot should get any climber through this section. I'm constantly seeing biners left on the last bolt.

There are many mixed routes at Tanner Dome and other locations in the Wet Mountains. If you are not absolutely sure about gear on any given route, take a set of Camalots and a set on nuts and you will be rewarded with excellent safe climbing.