BETA PHOTO: Closure sign posted at approximately the 12 mile r...
Description
Fantastic climbing in the northern wet mountains , 9 miles south of Canon City. A fun alternative to shelf road, with far more moderates. It is quite popular. There is a site with downloadable guide. I think there are about 150 routes or so, mostly granite sport climbs. I have climbed routes from 5.6 to 5.11 but there are many harder routes if you can climb that hard. Tannner Dome is the primary attraction, though there are many crags on which to climb.
From Canon City take 4th street left/south, over the Arkansas river, about 1 mile. At this point the road takes a 90 degree left turn. T this point turn right on to county road 143. Drive this until you go up the big hill, you won't miss it. 2 mles after this you park and climbing awaits. on the north side of the road.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Oak Creek Canyon:
The route begins by scrambling up to the 1st of two wide pods. You can walk a 3.5 cam to protect the first pod. Exit the first pod going over a small bulge with a finger crack. Continue up past the 2nd small pod into the 30’ splitter finger crack. Perfect ring locks and lay-backing off the lichen covered wall will get you near the top of the crack where you can grab a solid jug. Another 20’ of easy face climbing will get you to the anchors....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
A large portion of this area is closed from April 1st to August 1st every year due to Peregrine Falcon nesting. I believe the closure applies to all of the Tanner Dome Complex. You can be fined up to $5,000 and be imprisoned for up to 6 months for violating the closure. The program seems to be working, because I saw a pair of Peregrine's soaring on 5/14/06. I believe the other formations in the area are open.
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