The Titanic: A rock 250ft tall,about a 1/4 mile long,has an upper and lower tear,(at this time) only the lower half has bolted sport routes.It has 21 routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.12a,(all of which were bolted by Bob and Carrie in the summer of 2001) and two project not yet finished.Most of the routes are in the 5.10 to 5.11 range.A 60 meter rope is needed as some of the routes are 100ft long.Most of the routes are vertical with small roofs,and big holds(Carrie calls them diagonal washboards).The rock faces west and sits at 8,000ft.
Getting There
The Titanic is at mile marker 18, on Co.96, (8.3 miles west of Wetmore). The trail starts at the third green post, up hill from mile marker 18. Even though the rock is only 150 meters from the highway, it is best to use the trail as the vegitation is thick, with a stream crossing.
We did several routes here. For the most part, the rock is good. If you like overhanging, juggy routes there are a few here. The bolts tend to be well placed.
Try 'Hydroplane'(probably 10-). If you're short, the start is the crux (or use a cheater stone). Bear to the right when in doubt.
The rock in the Titanic area is excellent. Unfortunately the bolting is a different stroy. It is shit! It seems to me like someone was in way, WAY, to big of a hurry when equiping the rock.
I give the rock - ********** stars! I give the bolting - * star!
If you like the pro at shelf this is equal to the Robertson's standard in routes. The climbing is great (though nothing like shelf), good lines, setting and a worth while visit for sure. dan
Typical Bob Robertson. We've seen it down her for years. Good choice of lines, terrible bolting. Bob is known in the springs for this schizoprenic part of his nature as a climber. In the best of all possible worlds, he would point out routes and pay someone to bolt them. This of course raises the inevitable question of income and employyment level, however, and there we have one of the more durable problems of most route authors in general. Ray charles could do a better job bolting...
I visited the area last weekend. I agree with the analysis of the 7.2.2000 poster who said Robertson cant bolt. The bolts at this are are a travesty. In one case there are two bolts for an anchor drilled on the edge of a pillar. Not a very soud choice in my mind. In many cases, the crux of the routes is clipping the bolts. I probably wont make a second trip back here. If your going to bolt routes you have a responsibility to do a good job. What is so hard about this for some people?
By Julian Smith From: Colorado Springs, CO Sep 3, 2002
The majority of the climbs are located on the wall at the closest point (straight up and then right) from the creek crossing. This is known as the Bear Bottom Wall. The routes are numbered from left to right as you walk up hill. Locate the first route and start counting to the right.
Upon crossing the creek, if you turn left, there are a couple of climbs located up a steep ramp to the right, about 100 feet downstream. Keep going just a little ways more and you will find two more routes on the right, just past a flat gravely spot.
People climbing here should be careful. A Springs woman was seriously hurt here last weekend when she was hit by a falling block. Not only are the bolt placements bad, the the developers did not adequately clean the routes. The rock is somewhat loose and dangerous. You have been warned!
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