Start this exciting climb on the right side of the arete. Clip the first bolt, then wrap around the arete to the left, and clip two more bolts. There, that's the easy part, and all bolt protected. Next, climb up into the twisted dihedral above, with your last protection well below your feet. Finally, thin cracks provide protection and substantial handholds. Keep climbing past ceilings to the anchors.
By Ben Ingman From: Denver, CO Aug 26, 2008 rating: 5.10 PG13
There is only one real place for protection on this route (obvious thin crack for #1 and 2 TCUs and nuts), so sew this up and then run it to the chains. If you didn't place gear high in this crack (like me) there is a funky #3 C4 up high.
I gave this a PG-13 as the run-outs between gear get long (and I am a wuss).
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