Wow, what an awesome route! This climb just doesn't let up, featuring sustained power-endurance climbing on a gently overhanging face of gorgeous orange granite. Start on a ledge a few meters above the ground. You might want your belayer to be anchored if the leader is not absolutely confident at the grade. Hard, technical moves begin right off the ground. Breathe a sigh of relief when you clip the first and second bolts - after that, you're safe enough. Power through the long crux section above, using crimps and sidepulls. Climb like a reptile and you'll be fine. This is a very demanding lead - quite the testpiece for the grade! 5 bolts to the anchors.
Location
Immediately to the right of the classic corner feature of Hot Wee Wee.
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