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East Buttress
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Sugar Mama 

Sugar Mama 

5.7 R

   

FA: D. Langmade, Steve Moose 1978
Type: Trad
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 103 page views

Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2006


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Description 

Classic case of a pretty line and a not very good climb.Uphill from The Slot and just below Chestnut look for a cool looking dark corner. Climb this corner to a ledge just below where the corner looks blank. Here you make a decision. Traverse left to easier ground and use the Chestnut tree anchor to descend. OR Continue up the blank corner at about 5.9R.


Protection 

Single set of small cams and stoppers



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By Becky Gibbs
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 25, 2008

I climbed the upper dihedral direct (5.9R) and thought it was fun (3 stars).