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Cracked Canyon
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Tobacco Road 

5.9 R

   

FA: Kees, Kudo, and Trommer 1981
Type: Trad
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 167 page views

Submitted By: Guy Humphrey on Oct 1, 2005


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Right before the crux...


Description 

This is fun route located just to the left of Orange Peel about 400ft up the canyon on the left. For some reason I thought I was on Orange Peel at the time, and it sure felt easy for 5.10.

Follow a left leaning crack with good face/crack moves to a crux bulge. Clip a piton and back it up with a small RP, since you last gear is way below you. The route finishes with a runout headwall with good holds but poor gear. You can fish in a .3 camalot, but I did not see any other gear. Without this piece and considering the rusting piton below you, the route may be "vs".

Rap or lower from the 2 bolt anchor.


Protection 

1 set of cams to #2 camalot, 1 set of nuts including RPs, and maybe an extra .3 camalot