This classic route starts on a ledge (Tennis Shoe Traverse) about 150ft off the deck, about 200ft to the right of the large LF dihedral. Consult the guidebook for an approach pitch.
This 5-star crack to hard to miss from the road. This is a must do route if you are in the area for a few days. It starts out in a flared jagged wide crack with hand jams inside (5.10a). This leads to a good rest at the intersection of the upper two cracks. The left part of the Y-crack is easier and thinner, but more awkward. The right crack is a splitter fist crack. Get your #3 [Camalots] ready, and follow this beautiful crack for 25ft to a good rest. Cupped hand jams can be found deep in the crack, dive in and enjoy.
There is 2 bolt belay at 100ft. You can lower or rap with a 60M.
Protection
A few medium hexes, 1 set of cams to #3.5 [Camalot], doubles from #0.75-2, and about 4 #3 [Camalots].
I did this in early June '78 with a guy from Pennsylvania named Michael, who claimed he was a Green Beret deserter. (He also claimed to have been one of the first on scene to pack out Crash Dope from Tuolumne that winter. Whatever its origin, it worked very well.) Approached via Mail Chute, a long, wide 5.7 chimney. Y-Crack itself two pitches, then rapped back to ledge. I don't recall if there was much more to do--I was wiped and barely made second belay. Very smooth cracks with few useful face holds. Pretty adventurous--no one else on entire wall, hexes and stoppers only pro, didn't bring much water, no rain gear; awkward hanging belay after pitch one. Michael said we were doing the second ascent. I have no idea if that's true. Went to Bluegrass festival. Was fourth or fifth year, I think--low key and casual. Audience of a thousand, two tops. From what I hear it's different now....
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