To find this route, locate the [Teepee-Tower Crack] (see directions that are given for that route). From the tee-pee-tower crack, hike uphill to the left approximately 100 yards. The route is the obvious finger crack in a corner with a slab on the left wall to make it easier to layback. There is a short chimney section halfway up the route.
To get up to this crack either scramble straight up (3rd to 4th class), or hike a little further up the hill to get on a ledge that you can walk across.
This was a nice pitch with excellent rock, beautiful finger locking/laybacking and a fun little chimney section. Getting out of the chimney might be the crux, but you can have a hand to fist sized cam above your head. The laybacking is a bit pumpy, so keep an eye out for the rest stances. Set a gear belay after traversing a little left at the top on a little ridge.
To descend, go over the other side of the little ridge. We did this by scrambling up the little chimney behind the belay perch. (Assuming east is the direction that you were hiking when you walked up the gully to the base of the route) then you walk along little ledges towards the east until you can rap from a little tree on a ledge. There are slings and a quick link. This puts you slightly up-gully from the base of the route.
Protection
Protection is excellent, stoppers and cams from tcus up to #3 camalot or bigger.
Very high quality pitch. One of the best at it's grade in the Platte. The ridge at the top is run out at 5.6 or so. A bit scary if windy! Definitely worth doing if you are up at Wigwam. A lot of med-sized TCU's. Only 1 #3 and #4 Camalots needed.
By Sergio P From: Idaho Springs, CO Jul 21, 2008 rating: 5.10a
The Trout guide book says this route would be improved with anchors at the top and I have to agree.
About 100' uphill from the start of Wunsch's Simulator is an overhanging finger crack. Does anyone know anything about that route? It looks super hard, maybe 5.12+. This route does have an anchor on top that you can rap off with 2 80' raps.
Is it an overhanging lightning bolt sort of crack in orange-red rock? Probably Charlie's Crack, supposedly 5.12. Haven't done it. Very inviting line. John Langston, are you out there? Get to work and give us a full report!
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