Stefan Doucette making the lunge off the right han...
Description
Killer project and worth five stars on a three star scale, Starlight, fires smack-dab up the middle of the overhang on amazing features with a relentless demand on power. Edges, side steps, side pulls, and back steps all gun for a Manta Ray flake in the middle of the overhang. It is at least 5.12b just getting here. Pull around the flake on the right and launch a relentless series of crimps on progressively steepening rock. Jugs await below the lip of the roof, and a good thing too, since here again the pro shifts to the camming units. Just imagine tipping Ten-Digit Dialing back 30 degrees and you get the idea. Actually, some of these holds are incut, and a couple of square corners provide some relief and keep the continuity only a couple of letter grades harder than TDD. But what a route. Lowering from the top feels like Rifle, with 40 + feet between you and the wall. Starlight is a dream project on great stone with good moves and excellent gear. I have a bottle of champagne sitting around for the day this goes down.
Protection
Like most routes on the Wild Overhang Wall, this needs Friends or Camalots, QD, and a 60 m rope.
By phil wortmann From: Manitou Springs Mar 2, 2008 rating: 5.12+
This is the best pitch of stone I've ever put hands on. Serious overhang, with incut holds. Not a single rest for eighty feet. I'd say the crux is the dynoish move for the Manta Ray (I pulled on gear). The day I send this clean (if that happens) will be a day to celebrate.
By Josh Janes Administrator Apr 21, 2008 rating: 5.12b
Although this is an awesome route, I personally wish it had been developed as a trad climb. If it was, it would be a Front Range mega-classic along the lines of the Evictor or the Wasp. That said, I'm super thankful to the route developers for sharing this beautiful area and this amazing route in particular!
Regarding the Trad comment, there are hundreds of sport routes that could be done naturally with the right gear and mindset. Thunder Ridge is a very traditional area, and very few routes could be considered sport climbs. As for Starlight while it is true that natural gear could be had in the face features this is a foolish comment considering the route is already bolted. You might as well wish that Thunder Ridge was 15 minutes from BRC. How about you climb it on natural gear and still call it .12b, that would be a proud ascent. Or better yet link up other natural features on the wall and have your own FA.
Starlight is an awesome route as it stands, and while it may be easier for tall folks the rating seems pretty right on for most. Josh, did you actually send before downgrading?
I belayed Josh on this. He got it on his first 'real' go. It was impressive, and I know that if anyone can speak to grades, it is Josh. I have seen him spend a lot more time on climbs at lower grades. Great route!
The great thing about trad climbs, particularly up at Thunder, is that they don't need to be "developed," as Josh mentioned. Just stick the gear and go if you don't like the bolts, they aren't stopping you. And be sure to have someone take pictures, the climb makes for great photography as it is, and the trad element would make it that much more spectacular.
The Wasp Canyon
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