This is a fun, interesting route with cracks and slabs and routefinding. The first two pitches are the most difficult.
P1 begins right of Lost in Space. There are two very large trees at the base of the cliff; start to the Left of the left tree, climbing thru a short chimney up to a large rock with a disappearing grassy crack above you. Up the crack, then work left with a big slanting roof above you. Good belay in a notch. 5.9
P2 goes up a thin crack which disappears over a bulge. [On your right is the 10b variation in Hubbel's guide.] After the bulge, climb up in a wide, blocky crack and belay in a nice alcove with a 5 foot wide roof above you. 5.9
These first two pitches are 5.9. After the second pitches, there are several options. What follows is a Moderate option.
P3 goes right around the small roof, then use various crack systems and belay above the 3 very solid pitons. 5.8+
P4 goes through more cracks and then a 5.7 ish slab runout. This pitch was around 170 feet. Very nice belay on a grassy/bushy ledge.
P5 goes left around the rock above you along a left slanting crack, then easy terrain to the summit. 140 feet or so.
Descent: walk off to the left and the back side. mild downclimbing, no ropes needed.
Protection
Standard Rack to #3 Camalot. Hubbel suggest wires and #1 friends. Full set of stoppers, medium hexes, and tri cams were helpful
Sheep's Nose
RSS Feed
