Glenn Schuler on his very own SLIPPERY NIPPLE. Pho...
Description
Slippery Nipple starts in the yellow wall about 20 ft to the right of the black face with the bolted line, Not Even. A corner system can be laybacked, and protected with small wires or cams for 30 ft. Exit the lay back to a sub-vertical face and half a dozen bolts. Fine thin edge climbing for close to 50 ft will gain a double bolt anchor. The climbing here feels a lot like Devil's Head with continuous moves that never really deliver a distinct crux. Two stars for the excellent stone, good continuity, great sun, and an introduction to Thunder Ridge.
Protection
QDs and some thin camming gear. This route heads directly for a double bolt anchor at 75 ft.
This route was put up by myself and Lou Kalina. When mixed with beer, those slimy little shots make for one mean hangover. Lou and I were feeling the pain that day. This is one of my favorite warm-ups at T-Ridge - good rests, not too steep but hard enough to get your attention.
By Kevin Stricker From: Evergreen, CO Apr 30, 2008 rating: 5.11-
I don't know if holds have broken, but I would only recommend this as a warmup to an ex. Definite crux moves after the third bolt with a guaranteed slab fall is you blow it. Still an awesome route on great stone. Classic.