BETA PHOTO: Seamus 5.11 on Sheep's Nose. Bob D'Antonio climbin...
Description
600 feet of friendly granite close to the road, 40 routes of cracks and face of all difficulty, 1 to 5 pitchs in length, A classic 5.9 on the South Face, need I say more?
From Boulder: 285 to Pine Junction. Right on hwy 126 to Deckers. South on 67 through Deckers. Right at West Creek on S.R. 68. Continue for about a half-mile and look for a large dome on the right. Park at a pullout below the dome on the right side of the road at a break in the fence and the start of a small path. Hike this faint path to the base of the South Face.
Both Stewart Green and Peter Hubbel consider this route to be one of the best routes on Sheep's Nose. I think it's a great way to get Lost in Space. This route is but one of the many fine lines gracing the southeast buttress up to the 8,894 ft. summit of Sheep's Nose. With a short approach through the Poderosa pine and a sunny southern exposure, this route is a year-round classic for everyone.From the parking on Douglas County Rd. 68 hike along ...[more]
Along with some excellent bouldering there is also some good tope ropes on the bigger boulders. Brings some slings because the bolts are on the tops of the boulders. One of the best problems is a thin crack that moves diagonally left to right across the face of one of the larger boulders. Near the approach to Ten Years After.
Sheep's Nose is open as of a few weeks ago, as is Turkey. You can only park where there are posted parking signs. It's still considered a burn area, so be careful of flash flooding in the event of a heavy rain.
The fire swept through this area pretty well. Virtually all of the trees surrounding Sheep's Nose are burned and ash covers the ground. It's a little like being on the moon. Some of the boulders surrounding the base were damanaged by the fire, but most seem relatively intact save for some blackened spots. Looks like all the climbs on the formation itself are fine.mike.
It does kind of look like the moon, but most of the bouldering was unaffected fortunately. For instance... the Air Jordan Boulder has black stumps and dirt around it, but the boulder itself has barely a black mark. It makes bouldering up there a really unique experience right now, as long as you can put up with a bit of soot on your pad..
Sheep's Nose
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