BETA PHOTO: 1-Alligator Lounge 2-Quarry Wall 3-For Real Canyon...
Description
Scattered around the State of Colorado, a little off the beaten path, are dozens, if not hundreds, of superb climbing areas that see very little traffic despite hosting oftentimes many wonderful routes. Thunder Ridge is one of my favorite "secret" crags with a wealth of fine climbing to be had. Strictly speaking, Thunder Ridge is a South Platte crag, however, the ridge is so extensive as to warrant status as an area in its own right. Presently there are about 20 developed crags comprising 40 + walls and over 200 routes. The rock is South Platte granite with a mix of Devil's Head edges, flakes, and chicken heads thrown in. In addition, many of the best routes throw up a patina of [alligator] skin providing opportunities for trad climbing the faces. Many of the developed routes are fully bolted, but this is not a place to forget the trad rack. Nearly half of the routes are trad and many that have bolts take some gear as well. The develped crags vary in height from half rope outcrops to multipitch buttresses, and difficulty spans the gamut from 5.6 to 5.13+. The crags face largely South, but routes can be found facing all directions. Generally, Thunder Ridge can be climbed most of the year, but like much of the South Platte, is best avoided in winter due to the long approach and potentially nasty roads.
Getting There
Pre Fire:
Thunder Ridge really is off the beaten path. For the present, I will assume that most climbers can find their way to Deckers, square in the middle of the huge South Platte domain. From Deckers, head South on Colorado route 67 which travels generally along West Creek. After 12 miles or so, and this is a bit soft, you will come to the right hand turn-off for the town of Westcreek; take this turn (right). By-pass the town itself and continue South to the first intersection at road 360. Turn right onto 360 and continue for about 1 mi to The Sheep's Nose, where if you are tired of traveling, you can stop for dozens of fine trad lines on the Nose. The second turn past the Sheep's Nose is the inobvious and unimproved road 9J. Take this to the right, traveling North. After 4.8 mi you will encounter a State Wildlife area that shares a North border with a large tract of private land. Park here and bushwhack to the right of the road, avoiding the private land by hiking 1/4 mi East (to the right), then cut back North. After a small hill and a ridge, the crags will come into view. If you aim for the approximate middle of the South facing crags, you will pick up an old road that traverses several hundred feet below the crags. A cairned trail through the talus adjacent to the road will take you to the lower level of the crags. A second cairned trail can be found further down the road that will take you to the upper level. The upper level also can be accessed from the lower level crags by negotiating carefully through the talus. The first of the trails will deposit you at the For Real Canyon, between the Quarry wall and The West Overhang, as good a place to start as any.
Just past Sheep's Nose turn north on the 9J road and follow it until you reach a gate and chain link fence. Park at the small pullout on the west side of the road adjacent to the gate. From here, you can see the climbing area to the northeast and up the hill. From this point, there is a large rectangle of private property extending to the north and east, the gate is located at the SW corner of the private land. To avoid trespassing walk north along the road for about .7 miles and then turn right (east)once you are past the private property. As you get towards the end of the road it makes a 90 degree turn towards the east - do not go down this part of the road or you will be crossing private property! Instead continue straight north for another couple hundred yards and then go east toward the creek. Find the creek crossing at a small meadow with a 15' cliff band on your left (north). Keep walking eastward up the hill and you will find yourself on an old road that takes you directly to the cliffs.
One other thing I should mention about the road that runs along the west boundary of the private property - to the west is National Forest land and to the east is private land. The road meanders a bit and crosses both. There are metal signs clearly marking the NF boundary, so stay to the west of these when in doubt.
Once you know where you are going this is about a 45 minute hike to the first crags (Quarry Wall, For Real Canyon and Wasp Canyon). Beyond that, add another 15 - 30 minutes to the crags further on up the hill (Alligator Lounge, Brown Wall and Thunder Dome).
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Thunder Ridge:
This route is located on the steep wall on the left side of the Wasp Canyon. Variations are all across this wall. None harder than 5.8 unless you are REALLY trying. Very high quality wall that accepts good gear. Great routes for the 5.7-5.8 leaders. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Submitting directions would have that nasty little side effect of bringing people in there! We already have Shelf Road for that kind of climbing. My previous comment was an attempt to keep people from getting lost.
Wow Stefan, between your comment above and your comment on Phil's photo (which I thought WAS helpful), you sure come across as an ass...trying to have your own private crag? I've seen those crags for years heading down 67, just had no clue had to get there without crossing private property. Frankly, considering the length of the approach that I'm sure it involves, I don't think you'll be finding any Shelf Road crowds there ever.... Perhaps a friendlier soul will post the current approach directions.
Derek, I can see where you got that. To clarify, Phil and I climb a lot together, and I was just giving him crap on the hand drawn numbers (which there is nothing wrong with, as you said the picture is helpful). In fact, theres a good chance that when he took that picture, Kevin M. and I were there. If I didn't know him, and if I didn't know for sure the poster wouldn't take it seriously, it would have been a different comment.
About my directions comment- After I re-read it, I can understand your perspective. My ideas behind this comment, though possibly poorly worded and communicated, go as follows. The feeling is almost unanimous that Thunder could never become another Shelf, mainly because of the approach. Also, I have chosen to refrain from posting directions out of respect of the climbers who have found and developed that area. If anything, it's not my personal crag but theirs. This small handful of climbers have put an enormous amount of work into setting routes there; so much so that I wouldn't feel justified in bringing people in there. If/when they want to do that, that perfectly fine with me, but I feel that's their choice to make. This is a personal choice, and it was not imposed upon me by any of those people.
Since I'm one of "those" people and I like to consider myself a friendly soul, here's what I know:
Just past Sheep's Nose turn north on the 9J road and follow it until you reach a gate and chain link fence. Park at the small pullout on the west side of the road adjacent to the gate. From here, you can see the climbing area to the northeast and up the hill. From this point, there is a large rectangle of private property extending to the north and east, the gate is located at the SW corner of the private land. To avoid trespassing walk north along the road for about .7 miles and then turn right (east)once you are past the private property. As you get towards the end of the road it makes a 90 degree turn towards the east - do not go down this part of the road or you will be crossing private property! Instead continue straight north for another couple hundred yards and then go east toward the creek. Find the creek crossing at a small meadow with a 15' cliff band on your left (north). Keep walking eastward up the hill and you will find yourself on an old road that takes you directly to the cliffs.
One other thing I should mention about the road that runs along the west boundary of the private property - to the west is National Forest land and to the east is private land. The road meanders a bit and crosses both. There are metal signs clearly marking the NF boundary, so stay to the west of these when in doubt.
Once you know where you are going this is about a 45 minute hike to the first crags (Quarry Wall, For Real Canyon and Wasp Canyon). Beyond that, add another 15 - 30 minutes to the crags further on up the hill (Alligator Lounge, Brown Wall and Thunder Dome).
There is some amazing climbing here, well worth the hike! I'll post some more route/crag info in the near future.
Thunder Ridge is unlike any other South Platte granite - it is very featured. All routes have been drilled on the lead - as per South Platte standards. A few all bolt routes exist, but most take gear.
The developers did an excellent job on this area. The hike is long but not too hard, and is well marked with cairns and red tags along the way. Great place to climb and find some solitude.
I visited Thunder Ridge on Wednesday April 15th and noticed that the landing under the large boulder below the G-Route had been dismantled. I was very disappointed to see this considering the time and effort put into the development of this boulder. I know there are people that have been climbing at Thunder Ridge longer than I have but that does not give you the right to destroy a boulder problem. There are many routes at Thunder that are bolted and could be done with run out gear. However, I do not chose the chop the bolts on your routes so please do not destroy the hard work of other climbers. Unlike you, I chose to leave only what was already there. Without that constructed landing there is no way that this boulder would go and it does not significantly detract from the canyon, considering the people that use this canyon are all climbers that are dealing with stainless steal bolts left on the rock. If you have an issue with this please feel free to send me a private message. Otherwise, please be respectful of other users of the area who have the same vested interest in the long term sustainability of Thunder Ridge.
I don't WANT to post here - but before I see anymore verbal sparring I WOULD like to say ......... Thunder is a nice place to be with a great atmosphere to it ........ PLEASE do not change that. Thank you. P.M. sent
By Shane Neal From: Colorado Springs, CO. Jun 8, 2009
T-Ridge is amazing. The area, the post burn atmosphere, the amazing routes and rock all make it a great place to climb. Thanks Kev and Glen for the best Platte weekend ever! Not to mention all the hard work and cost you two and others have put into this gem over the years- you dudez rock! Especially for OLD dudz! ;)
For everyone else- please, just respect it. TRidge is a unique and amazing area. The long hard hike will deter the crowds and this is NOT a sport stop by any means. You need to have skill and mental strength to climb here. It is truly a climbers paradise in the CORE sense of the meaning. The ground up ethics prevail with pride, thus be prepared to climb that way. You must be SOLID and your grade, strong in your mind and really know how to use bolts that are where u need em' only and make the best of natural gear.
Come here with that fun, friendly, positive mind set that Kevin spoke of above- thats what it is all about here. Keep it green, respect the rock, route's, land and other users- and this one of a kind area will forever be around. TRidge is truly what climbing is all about, in every possible aspect. Love it and enjoy it!
p.s.- bring extra nuts! (not talking about the aluminum kind) Also, beware the wind, dead trees are being blown down-we witnessed it this weekend.
I love this place! its great... but it is a rope eater. On a lot of routes think about belaying from above, the anchors are all in a great atheistic positions, but the rock tends to eat your rope. A lot of the overhanging routes now sport leaver biners to help your rope but a lot of the classic routes will eat your rope, so just think twice before you lower and have fun!
Those atheistic anchors will certainly eat your rope. They could have a similar effect on your soul. Clip only theistic anchors -- save your rope, save your soul.
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