Double Trouble 

FA:  Unknown to me Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Season:  South Facing Views: 270 page views Submitted By: Tom Tresslar on Mar 15, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Double Trouble follows the wide crack through two ...

Description 

Start in a great crack and continue up "widening" terrain until you reach the first roof. Surmount the first roof (5.9) and continue into a large slot. Devise a way to the base of the next roof where cryptic moves set you up for the grand finale. I really had fun on this one.

Although other options are available, the best belay is right after the final roof. Extend your clove hitch 5 or 6' to tend the rope running through the final roof. A belay any higher could leave your rope stuck in the piece(s) you place at the final roof.

IMO: 4 star moves that are not obvious from the ground with some 2 star rock quality in places.

Location 

Far east side of Turkey Tail...find the obvious double roofs.

Rappel off the east side of the formation or down climb the chimney to the north. The tat on the rappel was "crispy" and seemed old; we backed it up for the first person and left an extra biner.

Protection 

Pro through 5" and several runners. I used 2 C4 #4 and 1 #5 and did some leap frogging. The belay I used took hand-size pieces.