I almost forgot how sweet offwidths are. This gorgeous route begins as a left-facing dihedral not too far to the right of Drumstick Direct on the Turkey Tail. Without a doubt, this route gets 3 stars and has nearly everything you would want in a fatty. Hubbel's book does this route a disservice by only giving this route 2 stars. It seems that there is some sort of unfounded prejudice against cracks wider than 3' - yet another debasing of a noble form of climbing. If you liked Honeymoon Chimney in Castle Valley, Utah, then you'll definitely appreciate this proud line.
Begin in a *relatively* thin crack, where some hand jams can actually be found. Follow up the widening crack towards the 1/4" trinket placed on the right side of the dihedral. Place a 4-1/2" piece nearby. Flow past this section and enter a large pod. Take a breather here before you continue. The dihedral crack becomes thinner (hand to thin hands) before opening into a small chimney. Move up the chimney and onto easier ground. Past the chimney, there are numerous face holds and the crack gets thinner. At the roof, where the crack ends, you can either move left or right and move to the top. Find your own way off the top. Topos for this climb in the books, especially the top, are less than adequate - I mean they suck. I moved left to the base of a really low-angled crack system that looked no harder than 5.easy to set my belay.
My descent. Because my second was the last thing on my mind as a did this route, I neglected to consider that he is a fat ass. When he entered the first pod and tried to clean his #1 Big Dude that I placed in the back of the pod, it wasn't happening without a good rubbing of Crisco - if at all. At first this was funny, but after several minutes of hearing him grovel, grunt and use my name in vain while the sun was setting, I knew that I would be leaving some stoppers. I lowered him, had him put me back on belay, traversed back to the right and downclimbed to the first keyhole stopper placements. There is a set of anchors in the dihedral just to the left of Sidewinder about 50 or so feet of the ground if you only have one rope (50 m may reach?) and my stoppers and biners are still near the top of P1 for added convenience.
Protection
2 or more of any combination from each of the following groups: 1) 6 Friend, 2 Big Dude or 5 Camalot; 2) 5 Friend, 1 Big Dude or 4.5 Camalot; 3) 4 Camalot; and 4) 4 Friend or 3.5 Camalot. In addition to these lodestones, bring gear ranging from a 2 TCU to a 3 Camalot. To descend, either do this climb in 2 pitches and walk-off, or rap from gear I left near the top of the first pitch (see full explanation below). Rapping will either entail 1 double rope rappel or 2 single rope rappels with a 60 m rope. P1 is roughly 150 feet of good loving.
Gee Ben, you managed to call your partner a fatass, but you neglected to tell us how it took you close to 4 hours to lead that pitch. Instead of an insult, I'd say your partner deserves a medal for actually keeping you on belay that long.
Just did this route the other day, and it was one of the best offwidths I've ever done. Don't consider the old bolt for pro, I wouldn't hang my hat on it. For those without several large pieces of pro, consider belaying for p2 about 50' up, where #0.75 & #1 Camalots can be used for the belay. This way, you can reuse those #4.5 & 5 Camalots throught the crux immediately following. At the top, hang a left into the easy gully. There is a lowering sling on the north end that will get you to the ground with a single 60m rope.
It is telling that only 3 people have rated this route, as compared to 20 or more who rate Boulder Canyon climbs. The route is solid 5.10 and calling it 9+ is just a sick joke. I pity the person who tries to go up it who can lead 5.9...But what do I care? Only a few people left in Colorado do wide cracks, so we get 'em when we want 'em, eh?
Sheesh! Ben provides a nearly move by move play back of this route, including a detailed gear list, and all Jason can ask is why it took him "4 hours to lead that pitch." What is this, an interrogation? Maybe he's a slow climber, or maybe he couldn't help to stop and take in the view every 10 feet. Maybe you should leave that fat ass "insult" to be dealt with by the 2 people involved, if that is really what it was.
And Bob- what is the point of posting a comment like that? Why don't you just stop reading when it starts getting a little "long-winded." The guide books do a better job at describing a lot of routes. Mountain Project, on the other hand, is take it or leave it. Or in your case, take it, leave it, or flame it.
Turkey Tail
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