Alternate start (easier) to Gobblers Grunt "Dash a...
Description
A varied climb of superb quality found on Turkey Rock's South Face. A fine introduction to South Platte offerings. From the Pass between Turkey Rocks and Turkey Perch, drop down and to the right, following the base of Turkey Rocks. The route starts on the West side of the South Face.
P1: The traditional start is in a dark chimney on the West side (5.7) just past the lowest point of the face, but this chimney is better used to identify a hand crack variation just to the right (very recommended). Begin with a small crack that angles right, leading to a bomber hand crack (5.8) charging straight up to a roof. The crack widens before reaching the roof (your big piece in the small pod) and get ready for the crux. Reach up to a jam above the small pod (5.9) and work via hand traverse left and escape from under the roof to another hand crack. The crack eases back and cruise to a good ledge.
P2: The first pitch was a satisfying hand crack, the second a delicate finger crack. From the ledge follow the cracks straight up the steep, open face above (5.9). The beginning of this pitch is fine climbing; tricky stems and thoughful, exposed progress leads back and forth up the dual cracks. Work around a small roof on the left, 5.6s on the face or tricky 5.8 along the crack. Belay up on the left on an exposed, delightful, small shelf.
P3: Climb the crack above the belay, following easier climbing along a left facing dihedral (5.7). Finish smartly with a small sampling of easy slab. Follow the line of least resistance to the right into a huge slot that leads to the summit.
Walk off to the East toward the pass between Turkey Rocks and Turkey Perch.
This climb is a definit must. Pitch two was the best! There are several possiblities for pitch two. Down and left is a striking finger crack, this is the recomended start. The finger crack is superb 5.9 that proptects easily. About 40-50 ft up one can cross into a crack to the right with some hands. Another 20ft or some bring you to a fork under a flake/roof. I whent right up a wide crack, which I estimate as 5.8, that ends up in a nice caviish ledge. If you go right I hear you end up an a slaby 5.7s, but I really would_ent know.
This is a classic for sure! I can't remember how many times I've done it. If you want to add some more great climbing, there is a way to TR the superb 5.9X Messner's Delight while on this route. At the top of the second pitch, you can easily traverse left to Messner's anchors (two old bolts, backed up with a good cam(s), if I recall correctly -- it's been a while). From there, rap or lower (60m rope mandatory, just barely reaches) to the huge ledge at the top of Gobbler's 1st pitch. TR it and then move your belay back to Gobbler's and finish with that climb's third pitch. Messner's is a thin crack that peters out, leaving you to wander up the face on knobs and edges. You can see it in the picture below that shows a variation start and the upper part of Gobbler's Grunt
By Matt Juth From: Evergreen Oct 14, 2003 rating: 5.9
It is possible to downclimb left off the top of the first pitch if that is all you want to do. About 20 feet, maybe 5.7. It would be a pity to miss P2 though!
Possibly as good as it gets for the grade. You can combine the 2nd and 3rd pitches, but a 60M will leave you just short of the top. A 70 would get you there fine. Fabulous varied climbing.
This is really one of the best multi-pitch climbs I have done anywhere. The variation on the first pitch is awesome-five stars. The second pitch is also of the highest quality . The belay ledge after pitch two is really nice and shady (b/c it is in a sort of cave). Anyway on to why I am posting a comment. I did not consult this site before going out and doing this climb. Instead I relied on the guide book-this was a mistake. In the guide book it shows a walk off to the west. I attempted this, and found out (unless I was totally off route) there is no walk-off. Instead I ended up leaving some cord and a locking biner to rappel down to another previously left rappel station. So as of 5/23/05 there are two solid rap stations going off to the west, total rap length is 120 meters, this will put you on the ground. Enjoy!!
I thought this was an awesome route. Very sustained the whole way, with a little bit of offwidth thrown in. If you're confused about where the belay ledge is between the 2nd and 3rd pitches, just ask Guadalupe, he's the brown and white pigeon that kept me company, don't worry he doesn't bite. May I also add that as a second, it was nerve-racking to watch my leader suspended in mid-air outside of the cave (2nd belay ledge).
By Pete Gallagher From: Manitou Springs, CO May 26, 2005
You are correct...the descent off of the west side is not a walk-off, but if you know the proper route, it is an easy downclimb that does not require a rope. There is a tricky overlap that you must step down from immediately below the rappel slings you mentioned. A good hand-jam makes this move very reasonable. From this point, it is an easy scramble down the wide crack / chimney to a ledge that traverses left to the top of "Mobius Trip" on the North Side. From this point, the route is obvious to the saddle between the Rock and the Leftovers. Although a bit more technical than the regular descent to the Turkey Rock / Turkey Perch saddle, this is a good descent to know, especially if the lighning is cracklin' and you're in a hurry. However, it may be a good idea to have someone show you the line if you are not familiar with it.
As stated above, the hand crack variation to P1 is of the highest quality and adds to the pleasure of the route as a whole. I didn't get on this route until recently because of the 5.7s finish on P3 that (I think) Stewart Green describes in his book (though it may have been Hubbel's). Not so! In fact, looking up at the slab I expected to run it out to the overlap, but encountered gear placements every 5 to 10 feet making it very safe. Also, with a couple of RPs, the 5.6s face on the second pitch felt well protected.
By Tim Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Aug 20, 2008 rating: 5.9
Thousands upon thousands of winged black ants were on the summit today, swarming as I tried to find an insect free crack to build an anchor. I've never seen so many flying ants in one place. Nasty.
On P2 I took the variation at the top that goes right thru a widish section. It was about 5.8 and protected nicely with 2 #3s. I placed a #3 at the end of the hand crack, heel toed and chicken winged a couple of moves, and place another #3 higher up. Fun little variation.