If you want to climb great cracks, then Turkey Rocks is the place to be. Without a doubt, it has one of the finest concentrations of crack climbs in Colorado with a friendly southerly aspect and a quick approach. It is often possible to climb here during the winter, although a four wheel drive vehicle can come in handy to negotiate the snow that is sometimes found on the road and the walk to the base of the crags.
Turkey Rocks is as its name suggest is a collection of rocks. These include the Leftovers, Rightovers, Turkey Rock, The Turkey Perch, and Turkey Tail.
Getting There
From Denver: Head south on US 285 to Pine Junction. Turn left at Pine Junction onto County Road (CR) 126 and follow the signs to Deckers. At the Deckers intersection, turn right onto CR67 and after approximately 8.5 miles turn right at the sign for Westcreek (CR73). Follow this road for about 1 mile and turn right onto CR68 (Stump Road - there's a fire station at this corner.) In about 2 miles you'll pass Sheep's Nose. After about 1 more mile, turn right onto Forest Road 51 (Cedar Mountain Road). This road is generally passable for 2WD as long as you're not driving a low rider! At about the 2 mile point you'll pass the abandoned Big Turkey Campground. You can either park here and walk about 30 minutes (uphill-not recommended) to Turkey Rocks or continue driving about another mile to the next road on the left. Take this road to its end (there are good camping spots along this road). The trail from here is good and it takes about 10 minutes to reach the saddle between Turkey Rock on your right and Turkey Perch on your left. Turkey Tail is to the left (north) of The Perch and the Leftovers are to the right (south) of Turkey Rock.
From Colorado Springs: Go west on US 24 to Woodland Park and then take a right on CO 67 towards Deckers. Approximately 14 miles from the turn left onto CR68 at Westcreek. See Denver description for instructions once at Westcreek.
Do not park in or approach the crags from Turkey Rock Ranch Estates. There is no public parking and the locals do not take this well.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Turkey Rocks:
This climb stands alone on a rock at the north corner of Turkey Tail, and can be seen looking left from Turkey Perch. This is only maybe 50-60 feet long, but it is very hard for its rating. It is an overhanging crack that climbs up jams through some weird pods and up into a squeeze chimney. Rap from bolts....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
We had a rope get stuck on (I think) P3 of Turkey Shoot, just above the belay ledge at the top of Nighttime madness. It's a green rope, half of a set of twins. We had to bail due to an injury and could not get it from the top.
I would very much appreciate if anyone who comes across it would return it, the owner was flown out by helicopter to the hospital (he is OK), and it would be nice to give it back to him. There's a nut and bail biner about 20' above the belay ledge you can have as payment. The rope was left on 03/03/2013. Please message me or email jmg417 at gmail dot com if you have it.
So, when was Big Turkey CG abandoned? I spent the night there last night and, though the gate was closed and there were no signs posted, it looked to be in pretty good shape. The privy was unlocked and even stocked with TP. Looks like they just haven't opened it for the season to me.
Unfortunately, my inaugural trip to South Platte didn't net any climbing. 'Twas mighty cold and snowing/y, and I am insufficiently manly. Oh well, still had a dandy time scrambling around and seeing the sights.
Has anyone been down to Turkey Rock in the last week or two? Are there still pilot cars driving on the even hour? What is the camping situation near the crag? Thanks for the help!
I was in the area about a month ago. The road should be fully open by now. When we were there, the road was complete but the ROAD CLOSED signs were up, and we basically just drove around. All the dirt roads were severely eroded but should be passable with moderate ground clearance.
Also, here is a link to a Google Maps route that takes you almost there. Simply turn left where the route stops. If you zoom in with 'Hybrid' view on Google Maps you can see the dirt road to camping and the rocks. The route starts at US 285, so Colospringers might want a different route. We drove from Boulder.
...These directions above are confusing. You actually turn off of the highway where you see a sign for Westcreek (CO67) and then take a right. You will turn right onto Stump Road, or SR68, about a mile off of the highway.
By Stich From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Sep 2, 2008
This has to be some of the best crack climbing in the entire state. Even beginners with no success on cracks can find something that fits their hands and have a good time on.
Some GPS driving directions, courtesy of Dru Whitledge.
By John McNamee Administrator From: Littleton, CO Sep 3, 2008
I've tried to improve the description on how to find the place. Please let me know if it makes more sense and is correct. Dan's google map and description is probably the most accurate and thanks for posting it.
Why don't people go South on CO 85 to CO 67 and south on that and enter thru Westcreek? It seems like the back way and maybe shorter. What am I missing? Is it harder that way?
I left a pair of 5.10 Mocasyms near the trail head leading to Turkey Rocks on Tuesday, May 19th. If someone finds them and would be willing to return them, I would be willing to compensate.
By Dan Petty From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 4, 2010
Here is the Lat/Long to the middle of Turkey Rocks: 39.114371, -105.23748. It would be nice if the area had coordinates....
I wish we had read the Mountain Project directions before heading out. Once you hit the abandoned campground and eventually come to a dead end on the drive, it's only a 10-15 min hike until the saddle. The camping situation is great, you can sleep free and easy in your vehicle or pull a tent out in the pullout.
Everyone should climb here, so many perfect cracks.