Great warm-up route! First thirty feet is perfect handjams. After that, either cross over to the left into a large 5.7ish crack or continue straight up in a thin, but fun, crack. Finish over the bulge at about 65 ft up.
Protection
Use pro up to 3", however #1 and 2 BD Camalots are very helpful. If you want to top rope, hike around to the top and rap a big sling around a boulder.
R.T.C.P. - This route is a spectacular introduction to crack climbing. The gear is bomber and the line is very obvious. It is also a good idea to place a piece up high before the committing move left into the final crack. CLASSIC
First crack climb I've done outside. Also the first time leading a crack climb. Excellent climb with a commiting move to get to the upper crack. It was fun (and tiring). But it's well worth it.
It's surprising that no one has caught this one. The picture shown is of Honky Jam Ass Crack, just climber's right (not counting the face in between) of Left Handed Jew.
Please let me lie down!!! And when you can, please delete these two comments I just put here. I looked briefly for the correction page and missed it. Everything is just fine on this page.... I am the one screwed up.
5.7 may be a little soft compaired to other routes of similar grades in the S. Platte (Classic Dihedral on Bucksnort, Slimey Slit on Squat Rock). I really doubt it's 5.8 (Gobble Up is signifcantly more difficult). Great climb none the less. Perfect hands up to a balance traverse left on good feet and a fun pull to restablish into the crack above. Just good fun.
By Tim Judkins From: Denver Jul 24, 2005 rating: 5.7
Great climb. There are placements for smaller (0.5 to 1.0 Camalots) above the crux, but they're sorta hidden on the right of the 10' offwidth stuff. Don't puss out (and flee to Honky Tonk like I did) because of this apparent lack of pro. Pulling the crux was hard 5.7, especially if you're not confident with your fists.
By Mark Nelson From: Coniferous, CO Jan 20, 2006 rating: 5.7
The start dihedral has perfect fingers to hands, then to fingers, then to hands; great to practice hand & foot motion.
Also, another variant is to fly straight up out of the dihedral to finish on a slab - very committing, the holds are there, the fall is clean, and the slab angle backs off once you grab the proper holds. In this variant, a smaller alien can be used in the finish of the dihedral as you would not need to worry about rope drag as you would on the short left traverse.
Webbing and/or long slings to use (girth hitched) with two opposed boulder constrictions for the belay (both constrictions were solid). Big fat ass ledge to kick back on and take a drink, it does get hot on that rock.
Also, available for your climbing pleasure is a walk-off!
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Jun 12, 2006 rating: 5.7
Great Route! I don't really feel like this route is 5.8 when compared to Gobble Up or Ragger Bagger.
Did this climb shortly after sunset. Moving out of the handcrack at the top is tricky in the dark. traversing to the top of HJAC requires a few little smeary moves that were impossible to see. However, I would only call it 5.8 in the dark. Fun!
Turkey Perch
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