Very cool crack on the Turkey perch just right of Gobbler. Goes straight up hand crack that widens to fist and a 6 foot wide section that is hard. Just above this wide pod is hands that gradually get smaller to steep shallow corner with offsize fingers (crux) that dies out at a bulge. Make reachy move to big hold to "escape" this blank section and move up to perfect hands on a less steep slab to a large tree belay (100 feet I'd guess). Very sustained the whole way....
This is, IMO, the best of the routes at Turkey Perch. Sustained, varied climbing that will require about every size piece on your rack (except perhaps a Bigbro). Two distinct cruxes - the OW bulge and the off-finger crack right before the ledge. Both are solid 9, with sustained 8 the rest of the way.
First ascent by Steve Cheyney in the early 1970s. First as a top rope and then a lead. Very dicey pro with hexes and stoppers! Named of course for the Herman Hesse novel.
There are decent anchors on top of this one- a cord and a sling from which you can top rope or rap with a 60 meter rope. This anchor is shared with Gobble Up. If rapping be careful to find the center of your rope as a 60 m cord will put your tails about 4 feet of the ground.
Excellent route! The offwidth was the crux for me, although the hands section got me pretty pumped. Absolutely beautiful moves through the hands and onto the face.
This is a great route and it may be they are all good on the south face. Second the gear recommendation for two #3s and a #4 Camalot to keep your mind easy through the wide part without back cleaning or leap frogging. I am sure some people can do without because the wide part is not the crux. I figured that came in the upper finger crack, which protects well with finger-sized cams (which finger cracks so often do).
By Jason Kaplan From: Evergreen Co Jun 11, 2007 rating: 5.9
This route was great! I got pretty pumped a couple times and wasn't sure if I would make it first go but I kept fighting and made it through the OW crux, the slim hands and fat fingers crux was tough too but I sturggled less there.
2 #3s, a 3.5, 4, 2 # 2s 2 #1s and that's about it, I still leapfrogged gear though.
I was sweatingh at the top, my face was so drenched I felt like I was crying or something.
By David Hodges From: Parker, Colorado Jun 18, 2007 rating: 5.9
IMHO I think that this is a good route to gain confidence making the crux move with gear below your feet. The gear is good and the fall would be pretty clean. For the crux I had a bomber yellow alien and a .3 BD camalot right above it. Very fun route requiring every technique in the book.
Turkey Perch
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