Quivering Quill 

Hi, I added some of the South Platte routes to the site. The reason was that I thought they were great routes, and would be fun to go to if you are headed that way (which isn't too far from Denver/boulder). Also, the area is great for crack climbing, its that simple! When you pick up the South Platte Guide book, there are unlimited choices (hard to narrow down if you have never been there, or heard anything about it). I have climbed in the Platte quite a few times, but, I am not any kind of expert on the area. I can just say that the routes I put into the site were excellent, and I would definitely go back and do them again. They are also quite popular with other people I have climbed with in the area (among other climbs). I was hoping that other climbers would add to this section so that I could see what others recommend in one of my favorite areas. I have some great pictures, and other routes I can add, but, I need a part for my computer for the pics. So, what does everybody think? A couple of side-notes...the bolt/chain anchors for Quivering Quill are on the back of the summit, and you should rap down the right side of the formation (when looking at the climb from the ground), and it is just my opinion only that the climb is hard for a 5.10c. And, as I understand it, the Center Route is on Cynical Pinnacle, which is part of the Cathedral Spires area...this place is huge! Anyways, happy climbing, I'm off to hit some ice for now...

As the contributor of most of the routes for another "larger/farther" area, I wanted to put in my two cents. If Lumpy hadn't been up on the site, I probably wouldn't have thought much about it, but now, we've got every major formation there (with the exception of Crescent Wall), and several climbs on each, and I think as more people associated with the site get up there well have even more. Speaking for myself and my brother, we always climb a lot at Lump in the warmer months, and we plan on taking a camera and getting some good pictures of all the formations, so we can get closer to the stated purpose of the site as Walt noted. Sure, it seems like we get away from that sometimes, but its a work-in-progress. By next fall we will definitely have a very good, extended list inlcuding probably most of the two-star routes 5.11 and under at Lumpy. I tried to give detailed directions for every route I submitted, and good approach and descent beta for every rock--now all we need is the pictures. My point is, the site is only a year old, and its already booming--in a couple more years, it could be a really definitive on-line guidebook for some of these areas. The South Platte is another area I'd love to explore, and I don't see why it couldn't eventually become a thorough database.

It's worth pointing out, though, that the stated purpose of the site is "We want to make it beyond obvious exactly how to arrive at a route, and where the route actually is." I believe the idea was originally to improve Rossiter's guide with some photos and solid descriptions. Adding stories and comments about routes is also useful, but seems inconsistent with the original spirit of the site.

I understand your point, Walt....but I don't use this site as a "guide" to the climbs, I use it as a supplement. I like to check out what others have contributed as fun or excellent climbs to do....then I get my guide or a friends and go do the climb. I think adding random climbs is great for someone like me who basically uses this site for ideas of possible climbs to do or to see what others have said about climbs I've done. My vote is to keep adding GREAT climbs to give me some more ideas of whats out there that I haven't climbed yet (a hellofalot, Im sure) :_)

I disagree with Walter, I'd love to see some more South Platte stuff cuz I really don't know much about the areas and I'd love to go climb some good ones there (like the Center route....although I thought it was on Cynical Pinnacle rather than Cathedral Spires).

My point was only that if you do something, you should do it right. There are thousands of routes in the South Platte, and hundreds of crags. Putting mediocre descriptions of a few random climbs, with lousy directions online is a waste of time for both the reader and the author. If you have a guide for Turkey Rocks, with, say, 90 routes and some pictures, thats good. If you have a couple random descriptions and nothing else, thats bad.

I'm not sure that South Platte stuff should really be part of this site, since I don't think anyone who contributes has climbed there much. I lived in the Springs for several years and climbed in the Platte a lot, but I would hesitate to try to make any kind of online guide for it. I think the site should stick to areas that it can do a really good job with - like Boulder Canyon, and leave larger/farther areas until we can put together something that does the area justice.

Well, speaking specifically of this route: It seems hard at its grade, unless you find the little.... Ah, go climb it- and keep your eyes open when it gets hard.

A few months later - clearly I was wrong. The S. Platte part of the site is more and more useful everyday. I guess I didn't realize is that what has happened here is that the guidebook has become a much more dynamic entity. If it sucks for a while, that's ok, because each new submission draws more attention and more input. I'm a little worried that that Komarnitsky fellow is trying to take over the world one climbing website at a time, but I'm psyched about this new resource.

This is a great route! Very pumpy but great fun. Watch the rope where the crack pinches down. It can get stuck there or force a piece of pro in forever.

Walt - keep contributing routes to the site and set a high standard for providing good information. As you've found, this is a great thing for those who want to use it. If not, no worries.

As for the Quill: "to place more than 4 pieces of gear guarantees failure".

"More than four pieces of gear guarantees failure". Well, it might also guarantee not hitting the ground; short routes such as The Quill don't get very far away from said hard surface you know. Perhaps you shouldn't lead it if you can't do it safely; and if your so solid on it that four pieces represents a safe style of ascent, then I would think you could stick in a fifth without guaranteeing failure -- nothing personal, just don't like to see wreckless climbing encouraged in a public forum from which a substantial population of influenceable young climbers may be absorbing their half baked notions.

AC - Good Point. Only a suggestion from an old climber who is not in the best of shape. Nevertheless, this is a short route, and four pieces will protect everything just fine (obviously assuming they are placed correctly and with the right spacing). If you want to or need to sew it up, it will certainly accept more.

Sooo good mmmmmm...

This is such a cool line. Easy and solid gear makes it feel rather sporty. Big moves between sinker jams is the way to do it. It does not need much gear (0.5-4 Camalot, about 4-6 pieces), but be careful, the ground is never very far away. Freakin' badass, but something has to be done about the anchor situation. The present anchor is in a retarded location, and one of the bolts is a goddamn star drive.

looks like someone at least added chains to these anchors for the rap.

I thought this thing climbed a lot like Lichen Lung at Vedauwoo but with better feet. Great setting. Jimmy Dunn said that he put up the FA in a blizzard thirty years ago. I wonder if that was sans shoes with one arm behind the back as well.