This is the "bolted" arete between Great White Crime and Vanishing Point. It can be TR'd from the anchor above Great White Crime, with the last bolt as a directional. Or, it can be lead if you have the guts, I currently do not.
Start by climbing up a thin seam that disappears below and to the right of the first bolt (it is also possible to climb/ solo the arete directly up to the first bolt). Good gear is available in the seam. Move left from the seam before the bolt and climb straight up past it. Continue straight up towards the second bolt, or move left to some larger holds. Either way, on lead this would be a heady runout in 5.10 territory with ground fall likely if you blow the second clip. The crux is between the second and third bolts on some thin sidepull edges and smears.
On TR, I really enjoyed the climbing on this route, definitely worth doing if you climb one of the other routes that share the bolted anchor. However for lead, the bolt spacing a somewhat odd in that there is 1 bolt for the first 50 or so feet and then 3 for the last 15 feet. I assume this was put up on lead and inconsistent as a consequence. A very bold and admirable effort if so. In my opinion, it would be a 2-3 star route if the last bolt was removed and one was placed between the first and second.
Protection
Four bolts and small gear for the seam at the start.
By Brian Adzima From: Boulder CO Sep 23, 2007 rating: 5.11 PG13
The bolt spacing is nuts on this route. You can get a marginal stopper threaded thru a horizontal constriction between the 1st and 2nd bolt (I saw this on rap, I don't know if I would have found it trying to onsight the thing). Actually clipping the 2nd bolt is a pain, but then the next one is three feet away, go figure.
Turkey Rock
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