Turkey Turd 

FA:  Earl Wiggins & Jimmy Dunn? Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 120 feet Views: 518 page views Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Jan 23, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

This route is located on Turkey Tail, about 75' right of Whimsical Dreams. Locate the "Turkey Turd", which is a narrow pillar of rock that sticks out from the wall, about 60' off the ground. Climb either side of that pillar (5.8 or so either way), the left side involves some easy OW while the right side requires stemming on good rock. The crux involves pulling the roof above the "Turkey Turd" pillar. An awkward, series of insecure thin hand jams pulls the roof where the crack widens to perfect hands. Luckily the gear is bomber. Two bolts are reached after about 120'. You can rap (and TR) with a single 70m rope, or continue to the summit.

Protection 

The crux section requires finger to hand sized gear. Depending on which start you use, you may need some pretty wide gear for the start. Save a #2 Camalot for the short section above the roof.