In Search of Unicorns 

The only thing R about this route would be the occasional swarm of wasps near the top.

When you're in the transition between the left and right cracks, I found that a #4 Camalot fits perfectly in the right crack and is easier to place. A #2 Camalot can be placed a little higher also but is not necessary.

I've got to agree with "...angry" on this one. The pro is bomber all the way up the to the anchors on this route. The challange is hanging on to place the gear, so I don't think an R rating is appropriate. The start described above is a variation to the original line. The original start, which I think is slightly easier, is to climb the wide crack directly. For those looking for a quasi-alpine experience, give this start a go when it is wet and oozing with green slime......

Stellar pumpy and fun. Solid 11 in my opinion.

As of today, the wasps are in full effect, making the final 10' unclimable. I agree that this route doesn't deserve the "R" rating.

I'm not 100% positive, but I believe this is a Jimmy Dunn FA. Perhaps Pete Gallagher can confirm?

First ascent of this route was by Ed Webster solo, I think in 1976. I was climbing Whimsical Dream while he aid rope-soloed it. I have photographs of him on it. We drove up there together. He wanted some aid practice. Jimmy Dunn did not do the first free ascent of this either.

Keeping track of aid FAs on a 200' sport crag seems kind of ridiculous, don't you think? I'd like to consider Ed's climb as a recon of a future route.

"200ft sport crag"?

That's pretty funny Mike ;^)

There's a fair amount of history surrounding this here "sports crag", including the first 5.12 done in Colorado (For Turkeys Only).

Careful...I don't think you want to engage me in a debate about the historical significance of Turkey Tail.

If we were to plot a spectrum of "sport crag-iness" that had, say, Rifle Mountain Park on one end and the Eiger Nordwand on the other, Turkey Tail would lie much closer to the RMP end.

Mike,
You are entitled to your opinions, but you do not need to resort to intimidation or vague threats.

Peter is right in defense of the Tail. One of the first 5.12s (For Turkey's Only) in the country if not the world is on that rock. The idea of hard and super technical face climbing in the Platte came out of Harrison Dekker's Jello Party. I know how hard it is as I did the second ascent a few days after Harrison pulled it of. How about "Liquid Acrobat" as hard and sketchy? How about Charlie Fowler's arete? The cracks are rough. The face climbing complex. It's all very steep and world class.

The Tail maybe is one of the most important small crags in the country in retrospect. Sort of a small Arch or Cookie in the Yalley. Imagine the talent that was there after Doucette and Higgins found it.

Pushing standards on that rock where the likes of Jimmy Dunn, Earl Wiggins, Pete Gallagher, Steve Hong, Eddy Webster, Steve Cheney, Charlie Fowler, Mark Rolfson, Ajax Green, Harrison Dekker, the Westbay brothers, Henry Barber,Bryan Becker, Henry Lester, and countless other great climbers of the era who did the very very hard first ascents routes there. These guys did not drill bolts either. Imagine Earl third classing "Whimsical Dreams." Imagine watching Billy Westbay pull back some whiskey and wandering over to Rasmussen's and free soloing it with no effort. He did climb the Nose in day, the very first time.

I'll even throw out the the idea that the cliffs of Indian Creek wouldn't be even known if not for the afternoon face climbs at the Garden of thee Gods and its loose rock and then a weekend of very difficult crack climbing at Turkey Rocks. Sandstone by week, cracks by the weekend. That gave these guys had confidence to climb in Indian Creek and in a pre cam world they needed more than confidence.

Also who did the first big free ascents in the Black? The same guys.

Turkey Rock is a very important cluster of small but steep and burly rocks that are in fact a crag very important to the history of of our sport. It's world class. Let us praise the Turkey and its place in history.

Amen to Turkey. Pete, I gotta say, you aren't intimidated by Mike are you? He's like, half as tall as you. Although he looks like one of those 'ball of muscle types'. Just gotta keep those types at arm's length. Don't let 'em get inside on ya!....

In all seriousness, I think Turkey is one of (if not THE) best trad crags in Colorado. It has DENSITY, good rock, and a good assortment of grades. I would trade Eldo for Turkey ANY day.

It's kind of funny to think of Turkey Rocks in a sport climbing way...basically most of the sport routes at Turkey are either 2 star, 1 star, or no-star climbs. Well, mostly no-star. Captain Hook and maybe another are okay routes but nothing to write home about. And who climbs them. I never see anyone on them. Sort of a waste of good bolts. They're really only significant because of the bolt wars. Good sport routes in the Platte, ya gotta go to Thunder Ridge or Devil's Head. Now that's sport climbing, pardner!

Well said, Allen. Not only the first big ascents in the Black, but some in the Valley as well. What about Jimmy's ascent of Cosmos? The first solo FA on the Captain! And EVERYTHING in the desert! You're right - they invented desert crack climbing (insert ad for Super Crack film). Not to take anything away from the great Stonemasters, but we always here about those guys. IMO - the generation of Springs climbers that you listed is one of the most influential crews in American climbing (don't get the big head Pete). When Earl free-soloed the Scenic Cruise, that very well could have been the greatest climbing feat ever accomplished at that time. And Turkey was their training ground.

"Intimidation"? Jesus, Pete, it was a joke...chill out man. We're talking about climbing...quite possibly the most esoteric and meaningless pursuit in the history of man. The only thing you have to fear, is fear itself...that and my Hilti Te-6A...vroom, vroom!

(Let's see if you can spot that joke.)

Yer jokes kinda suck Mike. Your first couple posts made you sound ignorant and aloof.

Well that's not a very nice thing to say...you don't know anything about me. In fact, I'm sure we'd get along great if we hung out.

Aw shucks, you're probably right. But you gotta agree, you're jokes kinda suck.

Wow...In Search of Unicorns has been completely hijacked. Oh well. Hey Mike - I assume you're the same Mike Anderson from Higher Grounds. And the same one killin' everything in Zion. Correct? If so...strong work bro. If not...yeah...your jokes suck. But keep eggin' on Pete. I want to see him get fired up.

What an entertaining, historical bunch of comments. I think the funniest is that it's rated F. Isn't it a continuous splitter in bulletproof granite. Anyway, as far as sandbagging goes, I love to bag with the best, but man did I get schooled trying this route for the first time. I did warm up on Whimsical Dreams and never recovered, or so I tried. To boot, I was climbing with a guy who made it look like it was 5.9. He climbs cracks as much as I work and I unfortunately work two jobs...a brilliant crack and I can't wait to go back to try it a little fresher...does anyone know when the wasps chill out?

I'm not sure, but I think that Stewart's comment about Ed aid-soloing the route was also written in the context of previous comments about how good the gear is the whole way - definitely does not deserve an R rating.

As a local Springs climber, I enjoy hearing and reading the historical radness that was taking place on a seemingly daily basis by the aforementioned group of hardmen. It's often inspirational, especially when puckering on loose, runout Garden sandstone!