Dan Morta placing gear before the crux of In Searc...
Description
This route lies on the South Face of Turkey Tail. It is about 30 feet East (right) of Whimsical Dreams.
It is an "obvious" splitter. Begin by climbing 15' up a curving crack, it is possible to deck here, as there are hard moves right off the ground. When the curving crack pinches down, reach right to an adjacent crack. This second crack is typically wet near the ground, and if you try to jump over too early, you'll find a nice surprise!
A no hands rest is reached shortly after switching cracks, then power through a thin hands/off fingers section. The crux just might be clipping the anchors--remember, you didn't send if you grab the anchors!
When you're in the transition between the left and right cracks, I found that a #4 Camalot fits perfectly in the right crack and is easier to place. A #2 Camalot can be placed a little higher also but is not necessary.
By Pete Gallagher From: Manitou Springs, CO Jul 3, 2007 rating: 5.11b
I've got to agree with "...angry" on this one. The pro is bomber all the way up the to the anchors on this route. The challange is hanging on to place the gear, so I don't think an R rating is appropriate. The start described above is a variation to the original line. The original start, which I think is slightly easier, is to climb the wide crack directly. For those looking for a quasi-alpine experience, give this start a go when it is wet and oozing with green slime......
Turkey Tail
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