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Captain Hook 

5.12a

   

FA: unknown
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 580 page views

Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Sep 6, 2004


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Joe Leonhard leading.


Description 

Captain Hook is located on the west face of the Turkey Tail (if Quivering Quill is on the north, and most of the routes on the south) around the corner from Quivering Quill. It starts on a large ledge and climbs the steep face on edges past four bolts. I thought the crux came passing the first bolt, but the pitch is sustained most of the way. The first bolt has a piece of grey sling on it. This is a fantastic face climb on solid rock (mostly).


Protection 

Four quickdraws. There is no anchor, so it's necessary to either lower off the last bolt, or clean it and move over to the raps for Quivering Quill. We set an anchor up high in a crack and toproped the climb.



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Summer thunderheads building need Pikes Peak.

Summer thunderheads building need Pikes Peak.


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By Joe Leonhard
From: Denver, CO
Jan 31, 2007

If I remember correctly, the crack up top takes #3, 3.5 and/or 4 Camalots. Use a runner to reduce rop drag over the lip.

By Doug Lintz
From: Lincoln, NE
Jul 31, 2007

Excellent, sustained climbing. Cranking up to the diagonal crack I broke off one of the bigger edges just below the start of the crack.