Peter Spindloe follows the second pitch of 'Turkey...
Description
This route is on Turkey Rock.
Fun route for the grade, if you like wide sections but with good gear this is your route. If you don't like wide climbs, the excellent fun hand-jams on the 2nd pitch makes the wide sections worth it. On the left side of Turkey Rock, before the gully starts to steepen, locate a wide crack system that goes up to a small roof.
P1. The first pitch goes up the wide crack. Chimney, arm-bar, or squeeze youself up the climb to a good stance 10' below the roof. Bring your large gear for sanity on this pitch, otherwise small gear can be found within the crack.
P2. The second pitch traverses right around the roof, and gains an excellent hand-jammin crack. After 80' of awesome hand-jammin' you will find a bivy sized ledge.
P3. The last pitch continues straight up the 8 offwidth, or one can traverse right along the ledge to a 5.6 chimney system that will lead to the top.
Walk off to the right.
Protection
Standard rack plus large gear (#4-#5 cams) make the route enjoyable.
This is a great route. The whole second pitch is really fun and has excellent jamming and great gear with good exposure coming aroung the roof. You definitely want a couple big cams (#4 Camalot) for the wide parts on pitches 1 and 3, but they're not too hard if you use small but abundant features on the faces for your feet. Pitches 1 and 2 are long a make for good, sustained 5.9 climbing.
Turkey Shoot is one of the first routes at Turkey Rock. It was established by Don Doucette, Mike Dudley and Art Howells in 1969 or 1970. Originally had some aid moves. The name came after some irate yahoo landowner starting shooting at them and bullets were bouncing off the rock.
Hubbel's guide says pro to 3.5". Trout's guide says bring fist size pro. The largest piece we brought was a #4 friend. Done this way, expect some lengthy runouts on the first pitch. Also, expect about 15 feet of unprotected offwidth climbing on the last pitch right off the large ledge. There is certainly as much, if not more, wide stuff than perfect hand crack on this one.
Three Stars for sure!! A #5 will make you feel good but, you'll still be running it out. If your at your limit on 5.8 (especially OW) then I would suggest bring another #5 or maybe even #6 to make the top pitch more fun. As it was, we just had a single set to a #5 and no worries. Someone else said it though. . . Expect more wide crack than hand crack.
P.S. pulling out of the chimney for the pitch 1 crux was wicked fun though!!! You can just wedge your body in there and get a no-hand rest while you figure out the exit moves.
This was one of the funnest routes that I have climbed so far. The second pitch is pretty sustained and really wore me out. Thanks to Roland my partner for the awesome leads. There are plenty of holds along the right side face of the crack, especially on the chimney. I usually have a tendency to "stuff" myself in the chimney which proves entertaining to all who watch me climb. This is a Great route.
Turkey Rock
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