Darren starting the crux, preplaced pro: blue/blac...
Description
This route is on the far left side of Turkey Perch. Climb a very thin and flaring crack for 25 feet using very technical footwork. Stem over to your right into another flaring crack (crux .12a). After this move, continue up through an easy section to the large belay ledge next to a pine tree. This route is a great toprope and is fun to see how well your footwork is.
Protection
If you would try to lead this, bring small cams and some stoppers. The crack is flaring, thin, and very difficult to get pro in. This route is best toproped by going around to the left and hiking above to a pine tree where a large rock sits to make a good anchor.
It's actually semi-safe to lead if you A) get a spot until you place a nut at ~20 feet, and B) can place a #3 or #4 RP above your head from a pretty poor stance. I led it once, I wouldn't do it again. In Boulder Canyon, it'd be an 8-bolt 12c.
From TR, 12a seemed right on the mark (perhaps soft by some platte standards). If I were to lead it, I would pre-place the gear. However that's not great style, and perhaps not worthwhile, sinces it is so easy to TR. Regardless, there is certainly adequate gear if you can place it. Cudos to anyone who has lead this ground up.
Walt, I like your style........ It's now 2004, in Boulder Canyon this climb would be a 10 bolt 13a.
By Darren Mabe From: Goulder, CO Jun 13, 2005 rating: 5.12a
The gear is decent getting up to the crux transition (TCUs, .75 and #1 camalot). I placed a blue/black alien hybrid that caught a couple of short falls (its about foot level when you are firing for the right side pull) after that, you dont really get a piece, several more insecure moves until the first hand jam (if you fall here, you might deck, hence the R rating). After deforming the lobes of the alien a bit, I weenied out and set up TR.
pretty stout little climb. Stretch your lats before this one! Way harder than Stiff Little Fingers.
Jimmy Dunn recently informed me that I had been the nut who first led this little climb. I did lead it in the Fall of 81 but I'm sure that Leonard Coyne did it first in 80. I know for certain the first ascent was done on top rope by Steve Hong in 79. It's a great problem and more or less safe.
Bob, Jimmy is way off on this one. I'll be seeing him next weekend and will set him straight. I think Harrison led it at about the same time as a kind of warm up when he was attempting to free Jello Party.
I led this route with all cams, placing gear on lead after working the moves out on TR. There is an amazing yellow TCU just before the crux with a great stance to place. I fell at the crux, hung for a few minutes, then fired the crux and put in a #2 Camalot at the wonderful hand jam section after the crux. Yes "R", but great gear. I need to go back for the redpoint (or headpoint I guess).
Make sure you have an excellent belayer for this one.
Turkey Perch
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