Jon Cannon on the fantastic airy traverse at the e...
Description
Quality route located on the left side of Turkey Tail, in the same alcove as Turkey's Delight, but on the opposite side.
P1 ascends a fairly sustained hand and fist crack to the top of the dihedral, followed by an interesting and airy traverse right to a large belay ledge (8).
P2 pulls over the roof on initial jugs and then an awkward move or two (8); go up a low fifth-class ramp to the obvious flaring offwidth (9). A #4 Camalot provides reasonably protection - a #5 would be quite solid. The P2 offwidth felt like a Vedauwoo 9 to me.
I give it 3 stars for the splendid South Platte granite, two quality pitches, and great position.
Protection
Standard rack up to #4 Camalot size - optional extra #2 and a #5 Camalot
Add PhotoPhotos of Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack
Ben Hobgood leading the start of pitch 2.
Pulling pro just under the roof at the start of th...
Add CommentComments on Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack
You can also rap this route on a 60m rope. On the first pitch there's a wire cable around a huge rock. On the second pitch there are two bolts -- and now two equalized pieces of webbing and rap rings.
I don't think I would bother dragging a #5 Camalot up this. I felt pretty good having a #3, 3.5, and 4. There were a few points where I walked the #4, but I'm not exactly comfortable in wide cracks. I combined the 2nd and 3rd pitches and I was very happy to have both my #3.5 and 4 still with me for the traditional 3rd pitch. For that part, I slammed in the #4 and stemmed the whole corner, which was a blast. Be careful if rapping with a 60m cord, I would guess that it would be close (we used a 70m and didn't have much left). P1 - 5.8+, P2 - 5.8, P3 - 5.9
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO May 9, 2008
Turkey Tail
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